All New England Books

LA Eatery Has Rhode Island Roots


BY ELISABETH HARRISON

Seafood takes center stage at Providence in Los Angeles.


Foodies in Los Angeles are flocking to a restaurant named after Rhode Island’s capital city.
The restaurant Providence has received two stars from the Michelin Guide. Rhode Island Public Radio’s Elisabeth Harrison spoke with Head Chef Michael Cimarusti
efore he opened a top-rated restaurant in Los Angeles, Chef Michael Cimarusti grew up spending vacations with his grandparents in Rhode Island.
He remembers summers on Scarborough Beach, where the clam cakes were to die for.
"There used to be a shack literally, like, right in the middle of Scarborough Beach," Cimarusti reminisced. "We’d spend all day on the beach and around noon or one o’clock my mother or my grandfather would give us 10 bucks, and we’d go get a dozen or a half dozen, and those are some of my earliest and fondest food memories."
Cimarusti says fishing with his grandfather was another inspiration for his restaurant Providence, which focuses on seafood.
He uses razor clams for his version of clam cakes, and a recipe from his grandmother's kitchen.
"I have a handwritten copy of her recipe, and that’s something that’s been on our menu since we opened just because, God, I love clam cakes when they’re done right."
Providence features multi-course tasting menus and dinners that can last several hours. But for simpler fare, Cimarusti has also opened Connie and Ted’s, a restaurant named in honor of his grandparents .
The menu includes Rhode Island specialties like fried clams and stuffies.
"We do traditional Rhode Island chowder there, along with Portuguese fisherman’s stew. All sorts of classic Rhode Island fare that I remember eating growing up," said Cimarusti.