Seeing this, its worth the 8 hour drive up to RI

 

Forget lobster rolls. Rhode Island's stuffies are having a moment

 

DINING

Forget lobster rolls. Rhode Island's stuffies are having a moment

Lynne Sullivan

The Providence Journal

 Stuffies are the new lobster roll? The New York Times recently published an article with the following headline: This Classic New England Seafood Dish Is the Antidote to $30 Lobster Rolls. As the Providence Journal continues our affordability series, this had me hooked immediately.

Stuffies are the new lobster roll?

The New York Times recently published an article with the following headline: This Classic New England Seafood Dish Is the Antidote to $30 Lobster Rolls. As the Providence Journal continues our affordability series, this had me hooked immediately.

A cheaper summer delicacy Lobster rolls are delicious, but even the least expensive ones are ... well, not cheap (where are they finding $30 lobster rolls, BTW?). Is the rest of the world finally realizing something that everyone in Rhode Island has always known – that stuffed quahogs are also delicious, and a true summer delicacy, but blessedly easier on our wallets?

A cheaper summer delicacy

Lobster rolls are delicious, but even the least expensive ones are ... well, not cheap (where are they finding $30 lobster rolls, BTW?). Is the rest of the world finally realizing something that everyone in Rhode Island has always known – that stuffed quahogs are also delicious, and a true summer delicacy, but blessedly easier on our wallets?

What to know about stuffies When I want information about a Rhode Island dish , who do I turn to? Food editor Gail Ciampa, of course. This is what she wrote in a recent story about stuffies: "Stuffies are a uniquely Rhode Island food served at clam shacks, fine dining restaurants and markets. They've also been made at home by generations of families. Other coastal places might have stuffed clams, but they don't have 'stuffies.'"

What to know about stuffies

When I want information about a Rhode Island dish, who do I turn to? Food editor Gail Ciampa, of course. This is what she wrote in a recent story about stuffies:"Stuffies are a uniquely Rhode Island food served at clam shacks, fine dining restaurants and markets. They've also been made at home by generations of families. Other coastal places might have stuffed clams, but they don't have 'stuffies.'"

Why are quahogs so popular in RI? Why are stuffed quahogs so popular in RI? As Gail explains, quahogs are Rhode Island's favorite and biggest local clam, bigger than cherrystones and tiny littlenecks. It's a sustainable resource and available year-round. And q uahogging supports the livelihoods of hundreds of Rhode Island fishermen. It also serves as a leisure activity for many others.

Why are quahogs so popular in RI?

Why are stuffed quahogs so popular in RI? As Gail explains, quahogs are Rhode Island's favorite and biggest local clam, bigger than cherrystones and tiny littlenecks. It's a sustainable resource and available year-round. And quahogging supports the livelihoods of hundreds of Rhode Island fishermen. It also serves as a leisure activity for many others.

So what exactly are stuffies? Stuffies are stuffed clams, specifically quahogs. Quahogs lend themselves to being stuffed because the shells are so big, Natalia Paiva-Neves, who runs O Dinis in East Providence, told Gail recently. People began making it because the clams were here and it was an easy, inexpensive way to use leftover bread to make a stuffing, she said. Portuguese Americans might well have had a hand in creating the stuffie because most recipes call for the addition of their most popular spiced, pork sausage, chouriço, to the stuffing.

So what exactly are stuffies? Stuffies are stuffed clams, specifically quahogs. Quahogs lend themselves to being stuffed because the shells are so big, Natalia Paiva-Neves, who runs O Dinis in East Providence, told Gail recently. People began making it because the clams were here and it was an easy, inexpensive way to use leftover bread to make a stuffing, she said. Portuguese Americans might well have had a hand in creating the stuffie because most recipes call for the addition of their most popular spiced, pork sausage, chouriço, to the stuffing.

What's in a name? Turns out there's some controversy there The comments on social media about the NYT article were hilarious. Anyone from southeastern Massachusetts and Rhode Island agreed, "stuffies" is what they are called. But folks from elsewhere in MA – think Boston area – were perplexed: They had never heard the term. Though someone did reference the work of Journal columnist Mark Patinkin – to prove that yes, in Rhode Island, "stuffies" is a word.

What's in a name? Turns out there's some controversy there The comments on social media about the NYT article were hilarious. Anyone from southeastern Massachusetts and Rhode Island agreed, "stuffies" is what they are called. But folks from elsewhere in MA – think Boston area – were perplexed: They had never heard the term. Though someone did reference the work of Journal columnist Mark Patinkin – to prove that yes, in Rhode Island, "stuffies" is a word.

The Providence Journal

Remember the giant stuffies? The Rhode Island Commerce Corporation a few years ago commissioned installations for several U.S. airports depicting a stuffie – an iconic Rhode Island stuffed clam dish – and a bottle of hot sauce. A few months ago, Mark himself acknowledged that maybe "stuffie" didn't convey the right image for those unfamiliar with the term. He suggested "quahog casserole."

Remember the giant stuffies?

The Rhode Island Commerce Corporation a few years ago commissioned installations for several U.S. airports depicting a stuffie – an iconic Rhode Island stuffed clam dish – and a bottle of hot sauce.

A few months ago, Mark himself acknowledged that maybe "stuffie" didn't convey the right image for those unfamiliar with the term. He suggested "quahog casserole."

Rhode Island Commerce Corporation

Where to get stuffies Stuffies are one of many iconic foods that Rhode Islanders can enjoy at any level of dining. They are served at white tablecloth restaurants, no-frills clam shacks and seafood markets. Gail's recommendations for where to get good stuffies: Coast Guard House in Narragansett Matunuck Oyster Bar in Wakefield Hemenway's Restaurant in Providence 15 Point Road Restaurant in Portsmouth The Crow's Nest in Warwick George's of Galilee in Narragansett Iggy's Boardwalk in Warwick and Twin Oaks in Cranston where they serve a Stuffed Quahog and a Portuguese Stuffed Quahog. Amaral's Fish & Chips in Warren Quito's in Bristol Monahan's Clam Shacks in Narragansett and Charlestown Aunt Carrie's in Narragansett Flo's Clam Shack in Middletown where they serve Flo's Fiery Stuffed Quahog. Dockside Seafood Marketplace in Warwick Anthony’s Seafood in Middletown Tony's Seafood in Seekonk Ocean Pride Seafood in Cranston Gardner's Wharf Seafood in North Kingstown.

Where to get stuffies Stuffies are one of many iconic foods that Rhode Islanders can enjoy at any level of dining. They are served at white tablecloth restaurants, no-frills clam shacks and seafood markets. Gail's recommendations for where to get good stuffies: Coast Guard House in Narragansett Matunuck Oyster Bar in Wakefield Hemenway's Restaurant in Providence 15 Point Road Restaurant in Portsmouth The Crow's Nest in Warwick George's of Galilee in Narragansett Iggy's Boardwalk in Warwick and Twin Oaks in Cranston where they serve a Stuffed Quahog and a Portuguese Stuffed Quahog. Amaral's Fish & Chips in Warren Quito's in Bristol Monahan's Clam Shacks in Narragansett and Charlestown Aunt Carrie's in Narragansett Flo's Clam Shack in Middletown where they serve Flo's Fiery Stuffed Quahog. Dockside Seafood Marketplace in Warwick Anthony’s Seafood in Middletown Tony's Seafood in Seekonk Ocean Pride Seafood in Cranston Gardner's Wharf Seafood in North Kingstown.

 

 

 

Where to get Hotdogs in RI

 

 

Wally’s Wieners

This popular comfort-food franchise offers up more than just the dish in their name. If you’re a glizzy enthusiast, take a look at either location’s loaded dog menu, which features options like the Fancy Pants Dog (a truffle buttered bun topped with caviar, crème fraîche, dill and chives), the New Englander (fresh lobster sautéed in butter and Old Bay on a garlic-toasted bun with scallions) and the Toronto Dog (hot honey maple bacon with garlic aioli). And okay, you should never pass up the opportunity to indulge in one of their wieners either. Wally’s just rolled out a new specialty menu of Pocket Rockets. For just $14 each, you can sink your teeth into a Stuffed Crust (garlic bread bun, marinara, mozzarella, pepperoni and hot honey), Rhody Stuffer (meat sauce, celery salt, diced onions and mustard), Street Corn (house-made street corn and jalapeño aioli), King Caesar (Caesar salad, French fries and parmesan) or Can of Corn (deep-fried corn dog with ketchup, mustard and mayo). 464 Thames St., Newport, 401-236-1760, wallyswieners.com; 120 Atwells Ave., 401-648-3330, wallysprovidence.com

 

Harry’s

Just because they’re consistently ranked number one for burgers in the state, doesn’t mean Harry’s can’t grill up a mean hot dog, too. In honor of National Hot Dog Day, both of Harry’s Providence locations are offering up $1 saugy dogs on a grilled buttered bun. Ketchup, mustard and onions are included in the deal while chili and cheese sauce can be added for a small upcharge. Harry’s On Main, 121 N. Main St., Providence, 401-228-7437; Harry’s On the Hill, 301 Atwells Ave., Providence, 401-228-3336, harrysbarburger.com

 

Debbie’s

According to our editor-in-chief, the newer-to-the-scene Debbie’s on Washington is a hot spot for hot dogs. She says their versions are, “Sabrett all-beef franks snuggled into tried-and-true Martin’s potato buns. The dogs are piled with toppings from simple sauerkraut and Grey Poupon for the ‘Lingwall,’ to ‘the Bacon One,’ with bacon jam, crispy onions, whole grain mustard and chives. They even have a hot dog tribute to Rhode Island Dynamite with meat sauce, USA cheddar cheese and French’s mustard.” You can read more here. And while Debbie’s took a well deserved vacation at the beginning of July, they will be open just in time to deliver dogs on National hot Dog Day. 100 Washington St., Providence, debbiesri.com

 

 

Ogie’s Trailer Park

The Granny Boo’s Kitchen walk-up window inside Ogie’s Trailer Park may be most hailed for their tots (especially once you have a few Ogie’s drinks in you), but hear us out about the Hot D’Ogies. The large plain version (no size jokes here) comes out perfectly simmered on a buttered bun while the Coney Ogie is lovingly drenched in chili and cheddar bechamel — both of which can be substituted with vegan options. But yes, you should still pair them with a basket of tots (bonus points if you go ranch-dusted or French Canadian). 1155 Westminster St., Providence, 401-383-8200, ogiestrailerpark.com

 

Narragansett Brewery

It may be a day late (National Hot Dog Day falls on a Wednesday this year), but we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention Narragansett’s weekly special. Stop by the taproom on a Thursday to get your fill of $1 hot dogs. If you can’t make it on a Thursday, the brewery still offers one for $6 or two for $8 (all that with a bag of chops) as well as saugy dogs topped in housemade chili and cheddar cheese for $6 each. 271 Tockwotton St., Providence, 401-437-8970, narragansettbeer.com

 

Olneyville New York System

Perhaps one of the most well-known wiener joints in the local land, Olneyville is of course serving up some specials on National Hot Dog Day. Head to this iconic institution and order two wieners all the way (you know, meat sauce, onions and celery salt), fries and a soda for just $12.95, or a true Rhode Islander meal of two wieners all the way, fries and a coffee milk for $14.21. 18 Plainfield St., Providence, 401-621-9500; 1012 Reservoir Ave., Cranston, 401-437-8248, olneyvillenewyorksystem.com

 

Wein-O-Rama

Okay, Wein-O-Rama in Cranston may be all about the wieners and not the dogs, but you can’t deny a cozy diner that’s been a local go-to for more than sixty years. Plus, the prices are unmatched: a hot weiner all the way for just $3.25 a pop? Say less. 1009 Oaklawn ave., Cranston, 401-943-4990, weinoramari.com

 

Rod’s Grill

Another wiener winner (sorry, not sorry), Rod’s Grill first introduced the Warren community to its fan-favorite hot wiener sauce back in 1955. Step inside for a classic hometown diner feel and sit down for a wiener “with the works” and a side of wiener sauce-loaded fries. 6 Washington St., Warren, 401-245-9405, rodsgrilleri.com

 

Sam’s New York System

And if you just can’t get enough of the stuff, you need to head to the family-run Sam’s in Warwick where they offer all you can eat wieners and fries. Diners are even encouraged to try and beat the record for number of wieners consumed in a single hour. The current record is eighteen, if you’re feeling particularly peckish (and brave). 6 Freeborne St., Warwick, 401-742-2105, samsnys.com

 

 

NY System Hot Wiener is not just a hot dog, but a taste of RI

 

 

 NY System Hot Wiener is not just a hot dog, but a taste of RI

Gail CiampaJennifer Borresen

Providence Journal

 

•            New York System Hot Wieners are a famous regional food specific to Rhode Island, not New York.

•            It is typically ordered "all the way" with mustard, meat sauce, chopped onions, and celery salt.

•            The "New York System" name originated as a tribute to New York City by a Greek immigrant founder.

New York System Hot Wieners are local to Rhode Island, not New York, and they are not hot dogs.

That may confuse those who didn't grow up eating hot wieners. But it makes perfect sense to those who did. No frank in Rhode Island is more famous or craved than the hot wiener. It tells a story of the history of Rhode Island.

There's even a James Beard Foundation American Classic medallion from 2014 to prove it.

But awards are not why the hot wiener is iconic.

It's a taste of home and one that holds a lot of memories.

That's why a hungry R.I. National Guard unit stationed in Iraq sent a photo to a Providence New York System joint asking for hot wieners for 120. It's what brought a bride, her groom and wedding party to show up at Olneyville New York System at 2 a.m., still dressed in their gowns and tuxes.

What is a New York System dog?

Hot wiener dogs are a mix of smoked pork, beef and veal. Traditionally, they start in a natural casing on a continuous rope that's about 20 feet long and must be cut into bun size at the restaurant by hand. Today, some arrive packaged the proper length. Either way, the meat is put in a split-top hot dog bun.

Order it "all the way." First the wiener is slapped with mustard. Then it's covered in a spicy, ground beef sauce that may or may not include tomato sauce, Worcestershire Sauce, chili powder and cinnamon. (Every New York System has its own recipe.) Finally, it is topped with finely chopped onions and a sprinkle of celery salt.  

What goes with a wiener? Only one thing will do and that is coffee milk, another iconic R.I. treat.

Bruce Kraig, a food historian and author of "Hot Dog: A Global History" and "Man Bites Dog: Hot Dog Culture in America" says it's what you put on the hot dogs that attracts people. That's how America came to have regional styles of hot dogs.

“You can tell the story of America through hot dogs. There are probably other things you could use, other objects or icons, but I think hot dog is a really good one.”

More: How the sausage is made: History of hot dogs from pushcart to ballpark

The history

Ninety-nine years ago, the Original New York System introduced the hot wiener at 424 Smith St., in Providence, staking its claim as Rhode Island's signature fast food. Gust Pappas founded New York System first from a cart, then the Smith Hill spot, and was succeeded by his son Ernie, then grandson Gus.

As for how the name "New York System" came to represent a strictly Rhode Island phenomenon of hot wieners, Gus Pappas said that it was a homage to the city from his grandfather. When he migrated from Greece, he went through Ellis Island. The fast pace appealed to him."

"He was in such awe of New York City, he just wanted to keep a part of it with him," he said. "You can imagine him coming from a small Greek town into the city.

They started spelling wieners as weiners, a more authentic German spelling, said Pappas. But he believes it got Americanized to wiener.

How there came to be more than one New York System was explained by a 1940 photo. It pictured five men, including Ernie Pappas, who all worked together at New York System that summer. One by one, the other four went out and opened their own New York Systems. Trademark protection was not considered back then.

Diners came in for lunch, dinner and early morning bites after a night of dancing.

The restaurant on Smith Hill is now under different owners and closed, though they say it's temporary.

There's a similar origin story for Olneyville New York System, which has been in the Providence square since 1946. That's when Anthony Stavrianakos, a Greek immigrant, opened the restaurant with his son Nicholas serving hot wieners and a luncheon menu. In 1953, it moved to its present location at 20 Plainfield St. The family anglicized their name along the line.

Its served mill workers. Olneyville was said to be as busy as Times Square thanks to the mills that produced jewelry. People ate when they had lunch and dinner breaks, and then they returned to socialize after work.

Today, new owners Heritage Restaurant operate both the Olneyville restaurant and the Cranston location at 1012 Reservoir Ave. Fourth-generation owners Greg Stevens and Stephanie Turini retired.

The stories

In 2014, the James Beard Foundation recognized Olneyville New York System as one of America's Classics, which honors "restaurants that have timeless appeal and are beloved for quality food that reflects the character of their community."

"A lot of restaurants change with time and keep up with trends," Stevens said at the time. "Here, we work with keeping it the same. When I ask someone if it tastes like they remember, yes is the best answer I can get."

After her 2021 wedding reception at Harbor Lights in Warwick ended, Chantelle Ward ordered three hot wieners, all the way, as is her habit. Only this time, she dined in her wedding dress and with her groom, Seth Oyler, by her side. It was 1 a.m. 

"It was a beautiful day that ended in a beautiful way," said the bride, who grew up in Pawtucket. "Those wieners bring back so many memories," she said. "Because my father brought me there every week growing up, just like his father brought him."

Ward's memories were made all the more poignant because her father, Michael Ward, died unexpectedly just months before her wedding. Hot wieners connected her to him that day.

There may be no more epic hot wiener story of craving than 2003's "The Dogs of War." It started with a letter sent to Gus Pappas at the Original New York System.

"I'm Staff Sergeant Robert Taylor of the 115th Military Police Company, Rhode Island National Guard. We are currently doing duty in Iraq and have been here since February. One of our members had a copy of the ProJo, dated July 2, sent to him and it was noticed in the food section, an article about the New York System Restaurant. As you may imagine, there were about 120 native Rhode Islanders that became totally hungry for a taste of home.

"It is my fondest wish and hope, that if you could find it in your hearts, if possible, to send some wieners to some soldiers, in order to remind of us of home and to keep our morale up during this difficult time. If there is anything we can do for you, please respond via letter to the below address.

"Thank you in advance, SSG Robert Taylor."

Along with the letter, Taylor sent a photo from Iraq of the Providence Journal Food section taped to a military vehicle and picturing the much-desired hot wieners. He and Specialist Scott McCain are also in the picture.

Pappas was ready to ship 500 to the base, but could not do so logistically. Dry ice, in which Pappas would have packed the wieners, couldn't protect the perishable food for the estimated three-week trip from the U.S. to Iraq. Though cargo planes regularly leave from bases around the U.S, food and mail can't be the first priority.

But the soldiers had all-beef hotdogs and buns, as well as ground beef, onions and cooking oil. So Pappas sent the spice blend, which was dry and nonperishable, and the soldiers mixed up their own fresh batches. And when they came back to R.I., they were all invited to the restaurant for fresh hot wieners.

That taste of home is now available nationwide as Olneyville New York System ships Hot Wiener Kits on Goldbelly, the online marketplace.

 

Jennifer Borresen contributed the interactive graphic to this story. She is a graphic journalist at USA TODAY, specializing in explanatory graphics and illustrations in various fields, including politics, science, weather and entertainment.

Where to find hot wieners

  

Where to find hot wieners

Olneyville New YorkSystem in Providence and Cranston are not the only places to get a hot wiener. Here are 11 other diners and restaurants to get your fix.

Wein-O-Rama, 1009 Oaklawn Ave, Cranston. 

New York Lunch, 8 Main St., Woonsocket.

Sam's New York System, 1031 Mineral Spring Ave., Pawtucket. 

Sam's New York System, 6 Freeborne St. (Sandy Lane), Warwick.

Rod's Grille, 308 Child St., Warren. 

M&M New York System, 361 Waterman Ave., East Providence. 

Jesse's II New York System, 2338 Plainfield Pike, Johnston.

Hash N.Y. System, 656 Main St., Coventry.  

J & T's Breakfast and Lunch, 98 George Waterman Rd., Johnston.

Ferrucci’s New York System, 1246 Main St., West Warwick.  

Moonlight House of Wieners, 32 Rathbun St., Woonsocket.  

How the sausage is made: History of hot dogs from pushcart to ballpark

Jennifer Borresen contributed the interactive graphic to this story. She is a graphic journalist at USA TODAY, specializing in explanatory graphics and illustrations in various fields, including politics, science, weather and entertainment.

8 ways to celebrate the clam during RI Quahog Week

 

 

8 ways to celebrate the clam during RI Quahog Week

Gail Ciampa

 

• Rhode Island is celebrating its 10th annual Quahog Week to highlight the state's local clam industry.
• The event supports local fishermen and promotes the quahog as a sustainable, year-round resource.
• Dozens of restaurants, markets, and clam shacks across the state are offering specials through June 23.

Viva la clam!

The state's Department of Environmental Management has declared this as Quahog Week in Rhode Island. It's the 10th time for the celebration and it promises to be the biggest yet. Restaurants from all categories, as well as clam shacks, pizzerias and markets, are participating by featuring a clam dish on their menus. Not all are quahogs, however. Littlenecks may be stealing the show!

The deals run through May 23 at 34 restaurants and 11 markets across the state.

Why is there a Quahog Week

Quahog Week shines a light on Rhode Island's favorite and biggest local clam. It's a sustainable resource and available year-round.  

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Quahogging supports the livelihoods of hundreds of Rhode Island fishermen. It also serves as a leisure activity for many others.

Quahog Week is a good reminder of markets that sell them and the chefs who turn them into something delicious.

 

You can see all the restaurants, markets and clam shacks offering specials at seafood.ri.gov/quahog-week.

Here are eight ways to celebrate Quahog Week.

Twin Shellfish

Details: 5 Harrop Ave., Warwick, 401-737-1575, twinshellfish.com.

Twin owners Tim McGiveney and Marty McGiveney catch their own products and also buy direct from over 20 other shellfishermen on Narragansett Bay. They are offering volume deals for Quahog Week with 100 littlenecks for $40, 100 top neck clams for $30, a half bushel of quahogs for $20, 12 Rhode Island oysters for $10, and a pound of sea scallops for $20.

Pizza Marvin

Details: 468 Wickenden St., Providence, pizzamarvin.com.

Pizza Marvin is serving up eight littlenecks, all the way for $20. That means hot wiener style with raw littlenecks, weenie oil, mustard, onion and celery. The pizzeria also has a Chowdah Pie pizza that will satisfy any seafood craving.

Newport Craft and Distillery

Details: 293 JT Connell Hwy, Newport, on Facebook.

On Thursday, May 21, from 5 to 7 p.m., harvesters from the Rhode Island Shellfishermen's Association will be shucking and serving complimentary littlenecks at Newport Craft. Small bites will be provided by various Rhode Island Seafood partners. The event is hosted by the Rhode Island Seafood Marketing Collaborative.

579 Benefit Street Restaurant

Details: 579 Benefit St., Pawtucket, 401-722-4400, the579.com.

The special is a Stuffie for $5.99. It's made traditionally with chopped quahogs, chourico, red peppers and spicy bread stuffing. The restaurant serves classic and contemporary cuisine and offers a Sunday brunch.

Matunuck Oyster Bar

629 Succotash Road, South Kingstown, 401-783-4202, rhodyoysters.com.

Matunuck Oyster Bar under the tent will be offering $1 littlenecks and cherrystones on the half shell.

Brightside Seafood Market

Details: 1014 Boston Neck Road, Narragansett, 401-661-9384, brightsideseafood.com.

Quahogs are on the menu here with $3 Stuffies and littlenecks sold for $8 for a dozen. Brightside offers fresh seafood at Bonnet Shores. They also sell at farmers markets.

Hangry Kitchen

Details: 542 Pawtucket Ave., Pawtucket, 401-424-5812, hangry-kitchen.com.

Hangry Kitchen is offering Butter Poached Quahog and Jonnycake. The new American bistro has an assortment of seasonal dishes on its menu.

Chosen one of the best Weiner's in the US

 Hot wieners, also known as New York System dogs, are a Rhode Island specialty. So what better place to sample them than at the James Beard America's Classic award–winner, Olneyville New York System in Providence? The toppings are an interesting cross between those of classic Chicago and Detroit hot dogs, with celery salt, mustard, meat sauce, and onions.