Olneyville N.Y. System,
North Providence, R.I.: NY System Dog; The New York System dog is a regional
specialty: small franks (in this case, from Little Rhody) are steamed, placed
atop a steamed bun, and topped with a cumin-heavy meat sauce, yellow mustard,
diced onions, and celery salt. You're going to want to order a few of these,
because they're small and addictive (see how many of them the counterman can
balance on his arm). The "wiener sauce" is so popular that people
have been requesting the recipe for years; you can purchase a packet of
seasoning online and make it yourself at home. / Olneyville N.Y. System
The hot dog is one of the few foods that's
nearly impossible to screw up. You heat it through, tuck it into a bun, squirt
on some mustard, and call it lunch. But there's a big difference between not
screwing something up and turning it into a paradigm-shifting, transcendental
dining experience. And there are lots of hot dog stands, restaurants, and
drive-ins out there that have the power to change your life.
The perennial grill mate to hamburgers, the
hot dog sometimes gets the short end of the stick, charring at the back of the
grill while juicy burgers are snatched up as soon as they hit the right
temperature. But there's a science, if not an art form, behind constructing the
perfect hot-dog-eating experience.
That experience was introduced more than
100 years ago, when German immigrants first brought over their frankfurters and
started selling them on the cheap at amusement centers like Coney Island,
arguably the epicenter for American hot dog consumption. Charles Feltman is
widely considered to be the first person to have applied hot dog to bun, in
order to avoid needing to supply plates and silverware to customers at his
sprawling Coney Island restaurant. Employee Nathan Handwerker opened his own
hot dog stand a few blocks away in 1916 and sold them for less than Feltman,
and became wildly popular (and remains so to this day).
The hot dog diaspora then began to take on
a life of its own, as people began developing their own spice mixes and making
their own hot dogs, and every region and group of people soon put its unique
stamp on the snack. Greek immigrants in Michigan concocted a cinnamon-rich beef
chili that came to be known as Coney sauce, but it has nothing to do with Coney
Island, while 'michigans' are big in Upstate New York but have nothing to do
with the state. In Chicago they top all-beef dogs with mustard, fresh tomatoes,
onions, sport peppers, bright green relish, dill pickles, and celery salt.
Spicy Texas Red Hots are popular in New Jersey, but not in Texas, and the
uncured, unsmoked White Hot is popular in upstate New York. And the regional
variations go on and on.
According to a recent study by GrubHub, the
country's most popular hot dog topping is cheese, followed by chili, mustard,
onion, and Chicago-style. Ketchup is further down on the list, and,
surprisingly, sauerkraut is down towards the bottom.
On our quest to find America's best hot
dogs, we kept an eye out for drive-ins, restaurants, and roadside stands with a
definitive style of hot dog and topping, one which embodies not only the
region's quirks but the particular tastes and culinary traditions of its
people. We judged these hot dogs based on several criteria: the quality of the
ingredients (sourcing the franks from well-known regional producers and using
fresh-chopped onions, for example), the entire hot dog-eating experience, from
driving up to placing your order to taking that first bite, as well as
reputation among professional critics and online reviewers.
In order to be included in our list, the
vendor needed to have a trademark dog, with toppings that are unique and
renowned. For example, Ben's Chili Bowl in Washington, D.C. doesn't just have a
trademark frank (the half-smoke), it has a trademark topping (chili), is
well-regarded by locals and professional eaters alike, and eating there is a
memorable experience unto itself. For those reasons, it's high on our list.
Sadly, there were some popular favorites
that didn't make the cut. While Lafayette Coney Island in Detroit ranks high,
its modernized neighbor, American Coney Island, didn't, because it lost much of
its charm in the renovation. And while the pretzel dog at chain Auntie Anne's
has its loyal devotees, the experience isn't exactly sublime.
Our list runs the gamut from ancient stands
that have been serving the same exact product day in and day out for decades to
gastropubs putting their unique stamp on the hot dog to a place where people
wait in line for more than an hour for one topped with foie gras. There's one
constant thread between them, though: they're the country's best.
Additional reporting by Arthur Bovino,
Colman Andrews, and Tyler Sullivan.
1) Fat Johnnie's Famous Red Hots, Chicago:
Mighty Dog
The number one hot dog spot on this list is
admittedly a bit of a sleeper, one that some Chicagoans might even do a
double-take at. It's a small, ramshackle, white-paneled hut that's just a bit
taller and just a bit wider than a canoe, on an industrial stretch of Western
Avenue, a 20-minute drive from The Loop. You order through a tiny window in
wonderment at how someone can fit inside the shack, after looking over a menu
that includes amazing named items like the "Mother-in-Law" (a tamale
on a bun with chili), a "Father-in-Law" (tamale on a bun with chili
and cheese), and a tamale sundae (a tamale in a bowl of chili). If you're
noticing the tamale trend here, you might see where this is going. As every
Chicago hot dog lover knows, hot dogs and tamales go hand in hand at many of
the city's storied spots (though they're frequently not the best thing on the
menu). Not so at Fat Johnnie's Famous Red Hots where John Pawlikowski serves
the Mighty Dog - a hot dog and tamale on a bun with chili and cheese. Sounds
like a monster, right? You're right to be scared, it's a mess. You want tomato,
sport peppers, relish, and pickles on that? You bet you do. Soft steamed bun,
moist tamale, fresh snap of the dog, chili, cheese, and a slice of cucumber
sliced on the bias - it's one of the best hot dogs you'll ever have. Johnnie
celebrates 40 years this May. Go wash down a Mighty Dog with a Suicide (cola,
fruit punch, grape soda, lemonade, orange, root beer, 7-UP, and strawberry
soda) to celebrate.
2) Rutt's Hut, Clifton, N.J.: The Ripper
with Relish
Even if Rutt's Hut, located in blue-collar
Clifton, N.J., served their trademark Ripper, a pork-and-beef Thumann's link
that's deep-fried in beef fat until it rips apart, out of the back of a
minivan, it would still be one of the country's most delicious hot dogs. The
fact that this roadside shack has not only a counter to end all counters amid
its stand-up dining room, but also an adjoining tap room where you can drink
cheap beer and chat with old-timers and fellow pilgrims, propels Rutt's Hut to
legendary status. Whether you order an "In-And-Outer," (just a quick
dunk in the oil), a Ripper, a well-done "Weller," or the crunchy,
porky, almost-overcooked "Cremator," make sure you get it "all
the way," topped with mustard and a spicy, sweet, onion- and cabbage-based
relish.
3) Hot Doug's, Chicago: Foie Gras and
Sauternes Duck Sausage
When Hot Doug's first opened at its
original location in Roscoe Village in 2001 (it moved to its current spot in
2004 after a fire), there were people who doubted its owner Doug Sohn's vision
of a menu limited to hot dogs and sausages - even Sohn's own family. "My
brother told me, 'Don't you think you'll have to sell hamburgers?'" Sohn
related in an interview, adding, "I have it on very good authority that
the people at Vienna gave me a few months. They came in and they were like,
'Well, this isn't gonna last.'" Now? Along with Doughnut Vault, Hot Doug's
is probably Chicago's most famous line for food. While its main menu is
delicious, its items can be replicated elsewhere. The specials' flavors and
ingredients, however, differentiate Hot Doug's. The normal menu ranges in price
from $2 to $4 per order and the special sausages are $6 to $10. It is the type
of place where you extend yourself monetarily and calorically because you don't
know when the next time will be that you will be able to carve out hours for
lunch on a weekday or Saturday to soak up the experience. The signature order
here of course, is the foie gras and sauternes duck sausage with truffle aioli,
which garnered quite a bit of press in 2006 following the banning of foie in
Chicago. Defying the ban pushed by chef Charlie Trotter and Alderman Joe Moore,
Sohn named the dog after Moore, was fined, but was ultimately victorious when
the ban was repealed in 2008. It's a brilliant pairing - the snap of the dog
against the creaminess of the foie - a visionary move celebrated by
gout-defying offal lovers everywhere.
4) Schaller's Drive-In, Rochester, N.Y.:
Meat Sauce, Mustard, Onions
A Rochester, N.Y., institution, folks come
for the nostalgia and stay for the timeless fries, hamburgers, and hot dogs. It
opened in 1956, so that distinct Happy Days atmosphere is in fact purely
authentic. Located right on the water, Schaller's specialty is the upstate hot
dog variety known as White Hots, fat natural-casing dogs made from pork, beef,
and veal, made by Zweigle's. Top it with some of their meat-based "hot
sauce," mustard, and onions, grab a handful of pickles, and you're in
summer vacation heaven. Two other locations have since opened, but the lakeside
location is the one to visit.
5) Olneyville N.Y. System, North
Providence, R.I.: NY System Dog
Olneyville N.Y. System, with three
locations in Providence, North Providence, and Cranston, R.I., claims to serve
"Rhode Island's Best Hot Wieners," and while that will always remain
a point of contention, they're certainly the most legendary. The New York
System dog is a regional specialty: small franks (in this case, from Little
Rhody) are steamed, placed atop a steamed bun, and topped with a cumin-heavy
meat sauce, yellow mustard, diced onions, and celery salt. You're going to want
to order a few of these, because they're small and addictive (see how many of
them the counterman can balance on his arm). The "wiener sauce" is so
popular that people have been requesting the recipe for years; you can purchase
a packet of seasoning online and make it yourself at home.
6) Superdawg, Chicago: Superdawg
Topped by what has to be considered some of
America's best signage - a flexing hot dog showing off his muscles to a winking
wiener girl - Superdawg has been an institution on Milwaukee Avenue across from
Caldwell Woods since Maurie Berman opened it in 1948. The recently returned
G.I. designed the building and devised his own secret recipe and set up a drive-in
at what was then the end of the streetcar line where he planned to sell $0.32
Superdawg sandwiches to "swimming families and cruisin' teens" for a
few months during the summer to help put him through school at Northwestern. In
1950, Maurie passed the CPA exam, but he and wife Flaurie decided to keep
operating Superdawg and to open year-round. The family-owned, working drive-in
still serves superior pure beef dogs, "the loveliest, juiciest creation of
pure beef hot dog (no pork, no veal, no cereal, no filler) formally dressed
with all the trimmings: golden mustard, tangy piccalilli, kosher dill pickle,
chopped Spanish onions, and a memorable hot pepper."
7) Rawley's Drive-In, Fairfield, Conn.:
"The Works"
In business since 1947, over the years
Rawley's has become a local legend. Behind the small counter where legions of
devoted fans place their order daily, plump Red Hots from Blue Ribbon take a
trip to the deep-fryer and are then finished on the griddle next to toasting
buns, where they develop a burnished, crusty skin. You have your choice of
condiments, but regulars would recommend "the works": mustard,
relish, sauerkraut, and chunks of crunchy bacon.
8) Katz's Delicatessen, New York City:
Mustard and Sauerkraut
Katz's Deli, in New York's Lower East Side,
is a New York institution. Their corned beef and pastrami, made on-premises and
sliced to order, are legendary, and the simple act of taking your ticket,
standing in line, bantering with the counterman while placing your order, and
finding a table has become as New York an exercise as, well, eating a hot dog
with a smear of mustard and a little sauerkraut. And it just so happens that
the hot dogs here are very good. Made especially for the restaurant by Sabrett,
these garlicky, natural-casing, jumbo-size all-beef dogs spend such a long time
on the flat-top grill that the outside gets a nice char and snaps when you bite
into it. A smear of mustard is all that's needed, but a little sauerkraut or
stewed onions certainly won't hurt.
9) Flo's, Camp Neddick, Maine: Hot Dog with
Mayo, Celery Salt, Relish
Flo's Hot Dogs in Neddick, Maine, is a
family-owned and operated establishment that has been in business since 1959.
They specialize in steamed hot dogs that only need a sprinkle of celery salt,
relish, and mayo. The relish is famous, although the recipe is secret, and is
sold separately in jars both on location and online. The classic joint is open
year-round, with the exception of Wednesdays, but it only operates from 11 a.m.
to 3 p.m. Pro tip: ketchup isn't available, so don't ask for it. The hot dogs have
a spicy natural casing, and the secret relish is at once spicy and sweet. Know
what you want to order by the time you get to the front of the line, and look
for a spot at the six-seat counter inside, but if it's full (as it normally
is), don't worry - picnic tables are provided outside.
10) Dew Drop Inn, Mobile, Ala.: Dew Drop
Dog
If you're from Mobile, Ala., you know about
the comfortable, wood-paneled Dew Drop Inn. Not only is it one of the city's
oldest restaurants, having opened in 1924, it boasts a loyal clientele of
regulars who don't even need a menu and consider the waitstaff old friends.
There's a surprisingly expansive Southern-tinged menu with a handful of hidden
gems (like the oyster loaf, a smaller-size oyster po'boy), but their hot dog,
supposedly the first to reach this neck of the woods way back when, is a true
standout. The bright red steamed dogs are stuffed into a squishy bun and topped
with coarse-ground chili, sauerkraut, ketchup, mustard, and a bread-and-butter
pickle. You can also order them "upside-down," with the dog sitting
atop the condiments, but any way you slice it this is a very solid hot dog.
As a side note, their cheeseburgers are
quite good as well; Jimmy Buffett grew up nearby and wrote a song about them.
11) Lafayette Coney Island, Detroit: Coney
One of the culinary world's greatest
rivalries is between two neighboring Downtown Detroit hot dog stands, Lafayette
Coney Island and American Coney Island. While the battle over which hot dog
tastes better is on par with the fight between Pat's and Geno's cheesesteaks in
Philadelphia, most locals will tell you that it's Lafayette all the way, for
several reasons. The hot dog has a juicy, salty, smoky snap, the Coney sauce is
spot-on, and the fries are crispy, but it's the experience that puts it over
the top in our book: While American is shiny and charmless, Lafayette is a
divey, weathered, eccentric sort of place that hasn't been renovated in many
years, but the charm is palpable, especially in the staff, who'll most likely
bring you your order in less than 30 seconds. In short: the perfect hot dog
stand.
12) Ben's Chili Bowl, Washington, D.C.: The
Half-Smoke
It might tweak some Washingtonians to hear,
but along with the Jumbo Slice, as bagels and pizza are to New York, so the half-smoke
is one of the Capitol's most iconic foods. The celebrity (and presidential)
photos on the wall are clear indications of Ben's Chili Bowl's city landmark
status, but the continuous lines out the door (and its election to both this
list and The Daily Meal's list of the 101 Best Restaurants in 2012) are
evidence that the restaurant's chili cheese dogs are some of the best in the
country. But those in the know don't just order "dogs," they get the
half-smokes, a half-pork, half-beef smoked sausage which is a native D.C.
specialty supposedly invented by Ben Ali, the original proprietor, whose sons
took over the restaurant after his death. As the U Street Corridor/Shaw
neighborhood around it has gentrified and become trendy, it's a more than
50-year-old bastion of down-home D.C. where college kids, old-timers, and
celebrities are all welcome as long as they're willing to stand in line like
everybody else, though the president eats for free.
13) Senate Restaurant, Cincinnati: Croque
Madame
Senate is one of Cincinnati's hottest
restaurants, and while some restaurants relegate the hot dog to the children's
menu, here they're front and center, in eight over-the-top varieties (including
one that changes daily). Their custom dogs are made by Avril-Bleh butchers just
down the street, and they go through 800 of them weekly. The real showstopper
is the Croque Madame dog: a béchamel-slathered dog, topped with Black Forest
ham and a poached egg, in a toasted brioche bun. It's breakfast, lunch, and
dinner all in one.
14) J. S. Pulliam Barbecue, Winston-Salem,
N.C.: Chili Slaw Dog
Well, it's called a barbecue place, but
what most people seem to rave about Pulliam's isn't the 'cue, it's the dogs -
and any place that's able to advertise "Hot Dogs Since 1910" has got
to be doing something right. These wieners are a fearsome dark red in color,
nicely spiced, and bursting with juices. The buns are buttered and toasted,
which adds a nice level of texture and flavor. Add chili and slaw (and mustard
and onions, if you want it "all the way") and you've got what
Reader's Digest once called "the best hot dogs in the South." To make
them really good, add a dose of Big Ed's Extremely Hot BBQ Sauce.
15) Walter's, Mamaroneck, N.Y.:- With
homemade mustard
On the side of an unassuming road in the
unassuming little New York town of Mamaroneck, sits an odd, pagoda-shaped hot
dog stand. This is Walter's, and the hot dogs here haven't changed since Walter
Warrington opened his first stand nearby in 1919. The copper-roofed pagoda was
built in 1928, and is currently on the National county's inventory of Register
for Hhistoric pPlaces. But it's the hot dogs that have really made Walter's so
legendary. Warrington devised the recipe for these dogs himself, and to this
day they're still split down the middle, basted in a secret sauce as they
grill, placed into a fluffy toasted bun, and topped with homemade mustard.
There's nothing else quite like Walter's.
