All New England Books

Gaggers

 

 

In Rhode Island, a summertime backyard cookout doesn’t need much. Toss a few “hots and hams” on the grill, set out the ketchup and mustard, and let the lawn games begin.

But if you’re looking to get just a bit extra this summer, there are easy ways to level up the humble hot dog. Whether you’re setting up a toppings bar or re-creating the state’s iconic “all the way” wieners, these simple upgrades will bring the backyard grill to life.

First things first: pick a good dog. Little Rhody Frankfurts, made in Johnston, are widely available at local markets and are the go-to for most wiener joints in the area. As long as you have a well-cooked dog, you can’t go wrong.

Always prep your buns: lightly toasted or steamed works best. And set out a variety of toppings to encourage some creativity. Just a few extra ingredients can go a long way. Experiment with pickled red onions, crispy potato sticks, crushed Doritos, truffle mayo, sriracha aioli, diced white onion, sauerkraut, coleslaw, pickled jalapeños, and/or banana peppers. (The diced white onion is probably the most essential among these potential toppings.) Also, be sure to get some celery salt. You might never use it for anything else, but it’s great on hot dogs.

For those who prefer something more structured than a DIY toppings bar, they can opt for themed hot dog builds: A Chicago-style combo might feature tomato slices, pickle spears, sport peppers, yellow mustard, and celery salt. A Tex-Mex variation could include salsa, shredded cheddar, jalapeños, and sliced avocado. For brunch lovers, try a breakfast dog topped with scrambled egg, bacon bits, and a drizzle of maple syrup.

But no Rhode Island hot dog list would be complete without the state’s iconic “all the way” wiener: a steamed bun cradling a natural-casing frank topped in order with yellow mustard, seasoned meat sauce, finely chopped onions, and a dusting of celery salt. It’s a combination that’s simple but loaded with local flavor.

Brought to Rhode Island by Greek immigrants in the early 20th century, the “New York System”-style hot wiener has nothing to do with New York. The name was, reportedly, simply a branding trick to evoke big-city appeal.

What sets these dogs apart is the wiener sauce, made from a closely guarded secret recipe. It’s a blend of finely ground beef, onions, and warm spices like cumin, paprika, and allspice.

While Olneyville New York System remains the best-known source with locations in Providence and Cranston, NY Lunch in Woonsocket serves a nearly identical version beloved by locals in the Blackstone Valley. Both shops source their dogs from Little Rhody Foods in Johnston. Even the buns are specific: top-split and steamed, usually from Superior Bakery in Cranston or another local supplier.

Wiener fans in Pawtucket can also visit the Happy Hour Social Club on Power Road, where longtime customers revived the beloved Kip’s Hot Wieners tradition in 2024. Originally served at a 10-seat counter on West Avenue for more than four decades, Kip’s signature wieners are now back on the menu Thursday through Sunday evenings.

If catching a Rhode Island FC game at Centreville Bank Stadium in Pawtucket, also find wieners on the menu at the concession stands.

And in Smithfield, Downstairs at the Brothers Artisan Café now offers wieners as part of its new late-night comfort food menu, continuing the tradition in a casual, games-filled basement space that doubles as a hub for food and fun.

But what if you want some at home?

Li’l General on Cumberland Hill Road in Woonsocket sells wiener sauce by the pound. Or, for something closer to the real thing, Olneyville NY System sells their own spice packet, which can be used at home to replicate the flavor with ground beef.

If you’d rather do it yourself, here’s a home-tested recipe that captures the essence of the original while keeping things easy for weeknight cooks or backyard parties.

RI wiener sauce recipe

Makes about 2 cups (enough for 12 dogs)

In a large skillet, cook 1 pound of ground beef and break it into a fine crumble. Add 1 small onion, finely minced, and 1 clove of minced garlic. Cook until soft. Stir in 2 tablespoons of tomato paste, 1 teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon of yellow mustard, 1½ teaspoons of cumin, 1 teaspoon of paprika, ½ teaspoon of chili powder, ¼ teaspoon of allspice, ½ teaspoon of celery salt, ½ teaspoon of black pepper, and a pinch of salt. Add ¼ to ½ cup of water or broth, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick but spoonable.

For a thicker, more diner-style texture, stir in 2 tablespoons of plain breadcrumbs during the final 10 minutes of cooking.

Serve it all “all the way,” with mustard first, then meat sauce, followed by onions and a sprinkle of celery salt, and you’ve got yourself a taste of Rhode Island.

Wein-O-Rama, the beloved Cranston hot dog joint known for its classic Rhode Island “all the way”

 

 

Wein-O-Rama, the beloved Cranston hot dog joint known for its classic Rhode Island “all the way” weenies, has officially reopened under new ownership, and did it in style.

To kick things off, competitive eating champion Geoff Esper stopped by and ate a staggering 48 hot dogs in just 30 minutes. Let that settle in for just a minute. That's a lot of weiners!

Local businessman Chris Tasca, who grew up going to Wein-O-Rama with his late father, partnered with friend Eric Beaune to buy and revive the iconic eatery after it briefly shut its doors last August.

This was never just a business decision,” Tasca said. “This was a personal mission. Wein-O-Rama was my reset zone... a place I’d go to decompress. Now, it’s my way of keeping my father’s memory alive and giving back to a community staple.”

The reopening took place on June 22, and Esper, a world-renowned competitive eater and teacher by trade, happily set a house record. He devoured the dogs “all the way,” which includes meat sauce, chopped onions, celery salt and mustard on a steamed bun.

“He hit 20 in five minutes and said he wasn’t even full after 48,” Tasca said. “It was wild.”

Rhode Island's Wein-O-Rama Hot Dog Eating Champion Geoff Esper

Wein-O-Rama via Facebook

The reopening celebration was a viral hit, with more than a million combined views on social media platforms. Tasca initially reached out to competitive eating icon Joey Chestnut, who couldn't attend but recommended Esper in his place.

Open six days a week (Tuesday through Saturday 6:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and Sunday 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.), Wein-O-Rama continues to serve breakfast, lunch and handles large catering orders. One loyal customer from Narragansett once ordered 78 hot dogs, earning a spot in the restaurant’s weekly “most gets the post” tradition.

Rhode Island's Wein-O-Rama's Most Gets A Post- Gino and Chris

Wein-O-Rama via Facebook

Tasca said Wein-O-Rama is for everyone; from boomers who remember it from decades past to today’s younger families, tradespeople, professionals and everyone in between.

RI’s ultimate food challenges: The toughest food competitions in the Ocean State

 

 

RI’s ultimate food challenges: The toughest food competitions in the Ocean State

Savana Dunning

Olneyville New York System's Hot Weiner Challenge

18 Plainfield St., Providence(401) 621-9500

The archetypal challenge of the competitive eating scene, other than the classic Washington County Fair pie-eating contest, is the hot dog eating competition. Nathan’s, famously, holds an annual Fourth of July contest wherein Chestnut set a new record in 2021 for eating 76 dogs and their buns in 10 minutes.

Rhode Island, however, deals not in naked beef hot dogs but in dressed-up beef, pork and veal hot wieners. At Olneyville New York System, the culinarily competitive are tasked with eating as many wieners as they can within a 45-minute time limit. The sausages come five-at-a-time and are served "all the way," with their traditional meat sauce, mustard, celery salt and chopped onions in tow. As of May 2025, the current record sits at 45 wieners in 15 minutes, according to the restaurant’s Providence location.



What Is A New York System Wiener And What Makes It Different From A Typical Hot Dog?

 

 

 

Wandering the crowded streets of New York City, you'll most likely spot a hot dog cart on every corner. Any hot dog fan worth their salt knows that part of what makes New York City-style hot dogs unique is the "dirty water" method and the other part comes from delicious simplicity. However, if you ask a New Yorker where to find one of these New York System Wieners you've heard so much about, you're going to get some funny looks, since the savory sausage isn't even made in the Empire State!

 

A New York System Wiener is a type of sausage made from a mix of pork and veal that's been highly popularized in the state of Rhode Island. It's entirely different from the similarly-shaped hot dogs, which are typically made from only pork (or a combination of pork and beef or chicken). "Hot wieners," as they're sometimes called, are served on a steamed bun with mustard, meat sauce, onions, and celery salt in that very specific order– any other way will apparently earn you a red flag. The meat sauce isn't tomato-based, which means the New York System Wieners are definitely not chili hot dogs and instead more of a grease-based concoction loaded with spicy flavors. The "gaggers" (another affectionate nickname) are never served with ketchup and always served alla arm service, lined up on the cook's forearm as it's loaded with toppings. And no, "wiener" isn't a typo.

 

How New York System Wieners became synonymous with Rhode Island

New York System Wieners certainly make our list of the 11 foods you have to try if you visit Rhode Island, and have been a staple in the state for over a hundred years. Back in the 1900s, when the New York City hot dog was a novelty concept quickly making its way to fame, the name "New York System" was slapped onto specific dogs to easily distinguish authenticity. The style of preparing the meat took on a life of its own and spread into the Greek community of Providence, Rhode Island. It was during this time that the Stevens family opened Olneyville New York System, which became the hottest spot in town for a belly-buster.

 

Olneyville New York System is well-known in the Rhode Island community for serving the best New York System Wieners, complete with all the toppings and prepared properly -– on someone's arm. The restaurant earned an American Classics medal from the James Beard Foundation in 2014 for its incredible hot wienies and proudly serves the gaggers to customers from all walks of life until the ripe hour of 3 a.m. on weekends. If you're itching for a New York System Wiener, you'll have to take a trip to the Ocean State and order a few (because it's customary to eat more than one) or try your hand at crafting this hot weenie at home. However, you definitely won't find it on the streets of Manhattan.