Crispy Homemade Clam Cakes

These homemade clam cakes are light, crisp, stuffed with clams, and never greasy. The perfect clam cake recipe!

Amy Traverso •

For many of us, it just isn’t summer without a batch of clam cakes fresh from the fryer. We love this recipe because it turns out terrifically crisp homemade clam cakes that are fluffy and stuffed with clams, but not greasy. The trick is using mostly baking soda as the leavening, which is activated by the lemon juice in the recipe.

Total Time: 50 minutes

Hands-On Time: 50 minutes

Yield: 30 clam cakes

Ingredients

•           Vegetable oil for frying

•           2 cups chopped clams, with juices

•           1/2 cup milk

•           1 large egg, beaten

•           2 tablespoons salted butter, melted

•           2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

•           1 tablespoon baking soda

•           1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt

•           1/4 teaspoon baking powder

•           1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

•           2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Instructions

Set a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add vegetable oil to a depth of 3 inches. Bring oil to 375° (or as close as you can).

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the clams with their juices, milk, egg and butter.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, baking powder, and pepper. Add the clam mixture to the dry ingredients along with the lemon juice and stir just until combined (do not overmix).

Drop batter into the oil by the heaping tablespoon (we use a medium cookie dough scoop). Work in batches so as not to crowd the pan, adjusting heat as necessary to maintain the temperature.

Fry until clam cakes are nicely browned and cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to cool. Repeat with remaining batter. Serve warm, with lemon wedges on the side.

How to Make Rhode Island Jonnycakes

A Rhode Island classic, jonnycakes (or johnnycakes) are thick or thin cornmeal pancakes depending on what part of the Ocean State you're in.

Aimee Tucker

In 2010 Yankee celebrated its 75th anniversary with a special issue that included “How New England Are You?” (a roundup of 75 New England “musts” compiled by senior editor Ian Aldrich), and one thing on the list was what Ian referred to as “Debate the Cakes.” I’ll share it in his words here:

Rhode Islanders have come to blows over jonnycakes for any number of reasons–over how they originated (Indians vs. settlers), over how to spell the name (journey-cake vs. Johnny cake vs. Jonny cake vs. johnnycake vs. jonnycake), over which kind of corn to grind for jonnycake meal (whitecap flint vs. white dent), and even over how to grind that corn (hot and round vs. flat and cool). Of course the most heated arguments occur over the “correct” way to make them: Debates about the merits of South County (West Bay)-style (thick, made with boiling water) vs. Newport County (East Bay)-style (thin, made with cold milk) have even reached the Rhode Island legislature. It’s enough to work up a healthy appetite.

Suffice it to say this is a dish nobody can entirely agree on, even in Rhode Island, so as a New Hampshire and Massachusetts girl, I knew I would need to at least head south to learn more. I had put together a list of stone-ground cornmeal resources in New England for a recent story on northern cornbread (“Cornbread Love“), so I knew which grist mill I most wanted to visit — the Samuel E. Perry Grist Mill (formerly Carpenter’s Grist Mill) in Perryville (part of South Kingstown), Rhode Island. It’s the only working water-powered mill left in the state, and has been in continuous operation since it was built in 1703.

So on a recent visit to nearby Westerly, Rhode Island, I took a detour on the way home to check it out.

They weren’t grinding on the day I was in town, but the charming little red mill was worth a look, and a fine example of the kind of architectural scenery we love so much in New England.

Nearby in Wakefield (another village in South Kingstown) mill operators Bob and Diane Smith welcomed me into their home for a hands-on South County Rhode Island jonnycakes demonstration. The couple have been manning the Perry mill and managing orders since the mid-1980’s, and are rightly proud of their small-batch operation — the only one in the state to use all Rhode Island grown and ground corn, so the only one allowed to label it “jonnycake” without the “h” according to Rhode Island law. What a treat for me to learn from the pros!

Remember, in the great thick vs. thin debate, South County, where the Perry mill is located, favors a thicker jonnycake made by pouring boiling water over a blend of cornmeal (or “jonnycake meal”), sugar, and salt. A little milk thins the batter to your desired consistency, and then, it’s time for the hot griddle.

Diane says the batter should be sturdy but thin enough to easily slip off a spoon (think buttery mashed potatoes), and the griddle should be hot with an even coating of bacon grease or corn oil. Like all good cooks, she advises you to trust your eye and instinct to tell you when the consistency is just right.

After 5 or 6 minutes, the jonnycake bottoms are crisp and brown. Give them a flip and let the other side catch up.

Hot and crisp with a slightly chewy center, the jonnycakes tasted better than I expected. Slightly nutty and with a pleasantly coarse texture, the flavor was pure and good, enhanced, but not overpowered by a good spread of butter. “Never maple syrup!” they both tell me, although a little creamed cod or chipped beef on top is alright for lunch or dinner. It’s true that just because something looks like a little pancake doesn’t mean it should be eaten like one. After eating a few jonnycakes apiece, Bob and Diane sent me on my way with a bag of their Rhode Island Johnnycake Meal (made from 100% Rhode Island Flint Corn) and a promise to call the next time they know the mill will be grinding so I can see it in action.

And sure enough, I’ve made another batch of jonnycakes at home since then, trying to get them just like Diane’s. The nutty cornmeal taste is oddly addictive. Try some Rhode Island jonnycakes for yourself and see if you don’t agree.

75 Classic New England Foods

From American Chop Suey to Yankee Pot Roast, this A-Z list of 75 classic New England foods is Yankee-approved.

Aimee Tucker

75 Classic New England Foods

75 CLASSIC NEW ENGLAND FOODS

American Chop Suey

It’s a comfort food dish with many names, but here in New England, a concoction of noodles, seasoned beef, and tomato-y goodness nearly always goes by one name and one name alone – American Chop Suey.

Anadama Bread

Maybe the most New England of breads, and popular for good reason – sweetened with molasses, Anadama is terrific for toast and sandwiches.

Apple Cider

Not to be confused with hard apple cider, which contains alcohol, “regular” apple cider is bold, raw apple juice that hasn’t been filtered to remove the pulpy bits (once filtered, it’s juice). They love it so much in New Hampshire they made it the official state beverage.

Apple Pie with Cheddar

Fall is for apples, and apples are for deep-dish pie baked in a buttery, golden crust. Don’t forget the wedge of sharp cheddar on the side!

Autocrat Coffee Syrup/Coffee Milk

What do you get when you add Autocrat coffee syrup to ice cold milk? In Rhode Island, you get the official state drink – coffee milk.

B&M Brown Bread

In New England, one of the most popular varieties of brown bread is made by B&M in Portland, Maine, and it’s sold in a can.

Baked Bean Sandwich

What do you do with leftover Saturday night baked beans? Put them (cold, of course) between two slices of thick white sandwich bread and call them Sunday lunch.

Baked Beans | Classic New England Foods

Seasoned and simmered to perfection, there’s a reason baked beans are a New England classic. Can you envision a potluck, ham supper, or summer cookout in New England without them? We won’t even try!

Blueberry Muffins

Anyone who has spent a summer in New England knows what a delightful flavor fresh blueberries can be. One favorite way to enjoy them is in a batch of homemade muffins…

Blueberry Pie

Another (even more popular) blueberry dish is a traditional pie made with wild Maine blueberries. They don’t call it the official state dessert for nothing.

Boiled Dinner

You don’t have to be Irish to enjoy this New England staple made (mostly) with corned beef and cabbage, but it doesn’t hurt. Neither does a pint of frosty green beer.

Boiled Lobster

It’s hard to explain how something so simple could also be a regional culinary icon, but boiled (or steamed) lobster is it. Served with melted butter, a sturdy set of crackers, and sometimes (for tourists and messy eaters) a bib, the lobster dinner is a New England dining experience that’s not to be missed. In a 2015 web poll, our readers voted this #1 of all the classic New England foods.

Boston Cream Pie

The original “pie in cake’s clothing,” this beloved combination of golden sponge cake, pastry cream, and chocolate ganache is so popular in New England you can even find it in doughnut form.

Brown Bread

Steamed brown bread made with molasses, cornmeal, and rye flour is an old-fashioned favorite, especially alongside a plate of baked beans.

Cabot Cheddar 

Another New England-born favorite whose fame has spread. Cabot Creamery, now owned by 1,200 farm families, got its start in the northeast corner of Vermont back in the early 20th century. Pass the cheese, please!

Cape Cod Chips

Kettle-cooked and extra crunchy, Cape Cod potato chips have been a Cape Cod (and beyond) favorite since 1980. Did you know their logo is a woodcut of Nauset Light in Eastham, MA?

Chop Suey Sandwich

The Chop Suey sandwich, or Chow Mein sandwich, is a bit of a head-scratcher (it’s exactly what it sounds like — chop suey noodles ladled onto a hamburger bun — and just as messy), but it’s shown up on menus in Rhode Island and the Fall River area of Massachusetts since the 1930s.

Cider Doughnuts | Classic New England Foods

It’s a cider maker’s tradition to use some of the freshly pressed juice to make lightly tangy, apple-scented doughnuts, and no trip to the apple orchard is complete without one (or several) of these fall favorites.

Clam Cakes

A favorite in Rhode Island, clam cakes (or fritters) are kind of like clam doughnuts – a deep-fried batter containing chunks of chopped clam. In 1947, we suggested they be served as part of an Easter menu, but really, they’d be perfect anytime.

Clam Chowdah

It doesn’t get much more New England than this. A warm bowl filled with fresh clams, butter, milk or cream, potatoes, maybe some onions or celery, common crackers to thicken it up… is anyone else suddenly feeling hungry? Fish chowder is pretty good, too.

Clear-Broth Clam Chowdah

A popular chowder choice in Rhode Island, clear-broth chowder favors clam broth over cream, but still packs plenty of clams, potatoes, and fresh aromatics.

Coffee Ice Cream

We love the deep flavor of coffee here in New England, and that includes ice cream. Chocolate chips or crushed Oreo cookies are optional, but encouraged.

Cold lobster roll with mayo (from Bob Lobster in Newbury, MA) | Classic New England Foods

Cold Lobster Roll with Mayo

More common in northern New England, this roll typically comes in a buttered and toasted top-split New England hot dog roll, but the lobster meat is cold and lightly dressed with mayonnaise. Variations include a bed of shredded lettuce, diced celery, and dusting of paprika.

Common Crackers

Hearty and crunchy, yet subtle in flavor, the common cracker is a true Yankee workhorse. The original way to thicken your chowda.

Connecticut Shad

Each spring, American shad make their way up the Connecticut River to spawn. Named the state fish of Connecticut in 2003, the locally-famous shad is notably celebrated each spring at the Essex Shad Bake.

Corn Chowdah

A lot like clam chowder, but with corn (preferably fresh in the summer). Particularly beloved by Yankee vegetarians.

Crab Cakes

We know crab cakes are most often associated with the mid-Atlantic coast, but we’ve got ’em up here too, and many (especially the Maine peekytoe) taste just as great.

Homemade Cranberry Sauce

Even if we secretly love the stuff in the can (Ocean Spray, if you please), most New Englanders have a recipe or two for homemade cranberry sauce for the Thanksgiving table.

Del’s Lemonade

Frozen lemonade never tasted so good – a true Rhode Island classic.

Dunkin’ Donuts

Maybe it’s the daily large regular or the old-fashioned cake doughnut to dip into it. Then again, it could be the hundreds of munchkins consumed throughout the average childhood or the iced coffees we clutch in our adult gloved hands in February. America might run on Dunkin’, but New England got there first, and our love runs a deep orange-pink.

Fenway Franks

The culinary icon of New England baseball got a fresh start in 2009, and now, thanks in part to a bold, new recipe, Fenway Franks are more popular than ever.

Fluffernutter

Flip open a few lunchboxes in a New England elementary school cafeteria, and I suspect at least one of them will contain a Fluffernutter sandwich – a heavenly, sweet combination of white bread, peanut butter, and marshmallow Fluff. They’re good grilled, too. Either way, you’re going to need that glass of milk…

Franks & Beans

The quintessential Saturday night tradition is still a classic. Take warm baked beans, then add hot dogs. Brown bread is good, too. This is Yankee comfort food at its finest.

Frappe/Cabinet

When is a milkshake not called a milkshake? In New England, of course, where it’s a frappe (or a cabinet, if you’re from Rhode Island).

Fried Clams (bellies on the left, strips on the right) from The Clam Shack in Falmouth, MA on Cape Cod

“Go belly or go home!” is the cry of the passionate fried clam belly fan. A summertime favorite made with whole-belly soft-shell clams, lightly battered and deep-fried to sweet, golden perfection. Often served at seaside shacks with a side of tartar sauce.

Fried Clam Strips

Fried clam purists turn up their nose at strips (contrary to popular belief, they aren’t rubber bands, just cuts of larger surf clams without the bellies) but strip fans say they prefer the chewy strip to the sometimes sandy belly. You can thank Howard Johnson’s either way.

Grapenut Pudding

What do you get when you add nutty Grape-Nuts cereal to a classic custard recipe? The New England comfort food diner favorite, Grapenut Pudding. We like the cereal in ice cream, too.

Harvard Beets | Classic New England Foods

The origins of the name are a little murky, but if you like your beets a little bit sugar-sweet and a little bit vinegar-sour, flavored with a hint of cloves and smoothed with a little butter, then you’re already a fan of Harvard Beets.

Hermits

With spicy molasses flavor and chock full of raisins, hermits were a popular seafaring New England cookie, noted for their ability to last on long voyages. Not as common today as peanut butter or chocolate chip, but we still love them!

Hood Golden EggNog

It’s just not Christmas until the first cartons of Hood Golden EggNog appear on store shelves. The recipe’s been a secret for more than 50 years, but as long as Hood continues to churn out batches of creamy, spicy, egg-y goodness, we don’t mind being kept in the dark.

Hoodsie Cups

The saving grace of those who can’t decide between chocolate or vanilla ice cream since 1947. Just add the flat wooden spoon and dig in.

Hot Lobster Roll with Butter

More common in southern New England, where it is served in a buttered and toasted top-split New England hot dog roll, with the lobster meat warm and tossed with butter. Variations sometimes include sherry butter, or a round roll.

Humpty Dumpty Chips

A Maine potato chip favorite with a memorable cartoon mascot. Popular flavors include “Sour Cream & Clam” and “All Dressed,” a flavor that combines barbecue sauce, ketchup, and salt & vinegar.

Indian Pudding 

Warm and fragrant with molasses, Indian pudding is a traditional cornmeal-based New England pudding. Topped with melty vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, it’s an old-fashioned bowl of heaven.

Jimmies

Sure, you can find sprinkles on ice cream nationwide, but only here in New England do we call them jimmies. Credit for their creation is claimed by Brigham’s, a Boston-area ice cream company that got its start back in 1914.

Joe Froggers

200-year-old New England cookie royalty, Joe Froggers are large, molasses-infused cookies (originally frog-sized) that date back to colonial times.

Jonnycakes

Made from 100% Rhode Island Flint Corn (spelled johnnycakes if they’re not), these cornmeal “cakes” are thick or thin depending on what part of the Ocean State you’re in.

Jordan Marsh Blueberry Muffins

The Boston-based department store may be long gone, but the recipe for sweet and sugary Jordan Marsh Blueberry Muffins remains a New England favorite.

Louis’ Lunch Hamburger

Long credited as the birthplace of the “hamburger sandwich,” Louis’ Lunch in downtown New Haven, Connecticut draws hamburger-lovers near and far with their take on the all-American classic — a ground-steak patty between two slices of toast. Condiments are forbidden, so don’t ask.

Maple Candy

Prized for its crumbly-meets-creamy texture and deep maple flavor, maple candy is made when the sap is heated beyond the syrup stage to the crystalline stage, where it’s then whipped and poured into decorative molds to harden. Hold on to your cavities!

Maple Creemee Sign in Vermont

In Vermont, maple-flavored soft serve ice cream isn’t ice cream, it’s a creemee (or creamie), and it’s delicious. Local lore has it that the more e’s in the word creemie (or creemee), the better the soft-serve ice cream is.

Maple Syrup

New England’s own “liquid gold,” maple syrup is what’s left when maple sap is heated until the water evaporates, leaving a concentrated (delicious) syrup behind. One taste and you’ll forget all about Mrs. Butterworth’s, if you ever knew her at all.

Maple Walnut Ice Cream

More maple? Why not! Another popular New England ice cream flavor, maple walnut is maple-flavored and studded with chunky walnuts.

Moxie

We think Maine’s favorite soda tastes like a subtle, not-too-sweet blend of wintergreen and licorice, but others…well…they toss around words like medicine, motor oil, and “root beer that’s gone really funky.” A true carbonated Maine classic since 1884.

Necco Wafers

Love ’em or hate ’em, Necco wafers are New England candy classics. Made here since 1847, the powdery sugar wafers also come in chocolate and tropical flavors. We love the Sweethearts come Valentine’s Day, too.

Needhams Potato Candy

Mainers love potatoes so much that they even found a way to mash them up with coconut and dip them in chocolate. Eat one needham and love them for life.

New Haven Pizza (this one is from Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana)

For many, no visit to New Haven is complete without a stop at Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, Sally’s Apizza, or both! Sometimes, New Haven coal-fired pizza (known locally as apizza) is the reason for the whole trip.

Parker House Rolls

The signature buttery dinner roll recipe at the Parker House Hotel. Famous fans included Charles Dickens, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, and most of the Kennedy clan.

Pumpkin Pie

The first Thanksgiving took place here in New England, so it’s only right that we hold a more recent Thanksgiving tradition – the pumpkin pie – in such high regard. We’re also partial to One-Pie brand.

Quahogs

Ever ask, “What’s the official state mollusk of Rhode Island?” It’s the quahog (Mercenaria mercenaria). These hard-shelled clams are most prevalent between Cape Cod and New Jersey, but they especially love Rhode Island’s Narragansett Bay. Ever wonder, “How do you pronounce that?” Around here, it’s “ko-hog.”

Red Flannel Hash

What do you get when you swap out some of the potatoes in a batch of corned beef hash with beets? The result has flannel-esque patches of red, so we call it Red Flannel Hash. Crack in a few eggs and call it Sunday breakfast.

Red Snapper Hot Dogs

Known for their neon red color and natural casing “snap,” Maine’s Red Snapper hot dogs are a backyard barbecue and camp grill favorite.

Rhubarb Pie

New Englanders know the sweetest rewards for surviving a long winter are the first fruits of spring. Rhubarb, along with its pal the strawberry, is one of the most anticipated, and nowhere does its tart flavor shine brighter than baked into a tasty pie.

Salmon and Peas

An old-school New England 4th of July favorite, the classic combination of salmon and peas has more to do with the calendar than anything else. The late-June ripening of peas and the annual summer migration of salmon made this dish an inevitable July mainstay.

Salt Cod

A staple in frugal Yankee kitchens (well, it used to be), salt cod is cod that has been dried and salted. Before eating, it’s soaked in water and re-hydrated. Popular dishes using salt cod include “Cape Cod turkey” and codfish balls.

Sky Bar

Why settle for one flavor when you can get four? A classic “made in New England” candy bar, Sky Bar has four chocolate squares with different fillings – caramel, vanilla, peanut, and fudge.

Steamers | Classic New England Foods

Signs of summer in New England include watching the Red Sox, battling black flies, and sitting down to a heaping tray of steamed clams (known as “steamers”), served with bowls of broth and butter for swishing and dipping.

Stuffies

Stuffed quahogs, a.k.a. “stuffies,” are Rhode Island’s favorite term for a delectable mixture of breadcrumbs, diced clams, and spices baked on the half-shell.

Succotash

A culinary combination of corn and beans, succotash was one of the first foods that the Native Americans of coastal New England shared with the Plymouth settlers.

Tollhouse Cookies

Today it’s the most popular cookie in America, but the very first chocolate chip cookie was invented right here in New England by Ruth Wakefield at the Toll House Inn in Whitman, Massachusetts back in the 1930s.

Top-Split Hot Dog Rolls | Classic New England Foods

With a toasted, buttery outside and a soft inside, flat-bottomed, top-loading New England style hot dog rolls are arguably some of the best buns in the world.

Tourtiere (Pork Pie)

Tourtiere is a savory French-Canadian meat pie. It’s thought that Quebec immigrants moving south introduced the recipe to New England, where it remains a holiday favorite.

Whoopie Pies | Classic New England Foods

Two hamburger-sized rounds of soft, domed chocolate cookies (nearly cakes in texture) sandwiching an inch or more of pillow-y vanilla filling has made the whoopie pie one of the all-time favorite classic New England desserts, and the official “state treat” of Maine.

Yankee Pot Roast

Whether the “Yankee” in Yankee pot roast is a nod to the dish’s American regional origins or (as some suggest) a joke about New England fru¬gality, a good Yankee pot roast embodies the traditions of simplicity and patience rewarded.

Dining Out: Best Brunches in Rhode Island

Dining Out: Best Brunches in Rhode Island

May 2, 2018 at 4:12 pm

Airy omelets, fabulous French toast, wonderful waffles, perfectly poached eggs, clever cocktails, hot doughnuts and house-cured bacon. These are a few of my favorite brunch things.What makes a stellar brunch? It must be delicious, but it should also be fun. That’s what you’ll find at these 11 spots, which brought fabulous food -- and fun with a capital F. - GAIL CIAMPA, Providence Journal Food Writer

MILK MONEY, Providence

Providence’s Milk Money brings clever versions of favorites to the brunch table. If you enjoy a good clam cake, you will adore Andouille fritters with Halloumi cheese and pepper aioli for dipping. It’s spicy comfort food at its best.

Like French toast? You will love, love, love these French toast sticks. They’re a little crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside, and have powdered sugar for good measure. [The Providence Journal / Bob Breidenbach]

Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

The menu here offers the Andouille fritters and French toast sticks as First Bites. Options under Eggs and Things include Quinoa “Fried Rice” with a farm egg, bok choy and mushrooms. Other must-haves include executive chef Marisa Walachy’s Creamy Polenta and Chicken ’N Biscuit.

Even the green, purple and blue mason jars used as water glasses are fun here. And Milk Money handles big parties beautifully. [The Providence Journal / Bob Breidenbach]

Details: Milk Money, 566 South Water St., Providence, (401) 649-4667, milkmoneyri.com

ROGUE ISLAND, Providence

Nestled in Providence’s Arcade, Rogue Island Local Kitchen & Bar had my allegiance before I tasted a single bite. When you make reservations (mine was made by my husband, using his name), your table is adorned with a chalkboard bearing your name. What a simple, but lovely and fun, way to begin brunch.

So too was the suggestion of Irish coffee, which was perfect and served in a big mug. It went perfectly with the homemade doughnut of the day. Mine was yummy strawberry. [The Providence Journal, file / Sandor Bodo]

Brunch is served on a bonus day, Friday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Don’t miss the breakfast sandwiches, which are excellent, and I may have had the best one of all during my brunch tour: It starts with a homemade bagel, and layers on fabulous housemade sausage, two eggs, honey mustard, arugula and Cabot cheddar cheese.

The menu also features a unique Tater Tot Poutine. Cool. [The Providence Journal / Gail Ciampa]

Details: Rogue Island Local Kitchen & Bar, 65 Weybosset St., Suite #108 in the Arcade, Providence, (401) 831-3733, rogueislandgroup.com

BAYBERRY BEER HALL, Providence

They may be new to the Providence scene and specialize in beer, but Bayberry Beer Hall gets brunch. Big time. What a delight to start with a Nitro Stout. This drink starts with Nitro Cart creamy cold-brew coffee, which is mixed with a rotating beer and Amaro, and then topped with whipped cream and crushed nuts.

But that’s only the beginning. Choose from small bites that range from fresh fruit to slab bacon drizzled with a maple bourbon glaze. I did not choose the fruit. The bacon was a meal, and a perfect sweet and salty one at that. [The Providence Journal / Gail Ciampa]

Brunch is served Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Then there are handheld options, like a breakfast sandwich or a chicken schnitzel sandwich, and savory platters, including a seasonal frittata, shakshuka and huevos ranchero.

If you choose the sweets category, and I did, you might get an amazing fresh-baked pastry, like this cinnamon bun that filled a dish and served two or three easily. [The Providence Journal / Gail Ciampa]

Details: Bayberry Beer Hall, 381 West Fountain St., Providence, (401) 383-9487. Bayberrybeerhall.com

Owners Natalie and Tom Dennen at their new restaurant on West Side.

Communal tables make this a perfect place for big gatherings. [The Providence Journal/Sandor Bodo]

Details: Bayberry Beer Hall, 381 West Fountain St., Providence, (401) 383-9487. Bayberrybeerhall.com

PERSIMMON, Providence

Brunch at Persimmon is everything you’d expect from chef Champe Speidel. The food is beautiful to look at and twice as delicious. The menu is small but ranges from smoked salmon to a spaghetti Bolognese. This is a place where you really could start with breakfast and end up ordering a lunch dish if you sit visiting with friends long enough, as I did. The service is always so stellar it’s hard to say goodbye. Brunch here is served only once a month, making it even more special. [The Providence Journal, file / David DelPoio]

Brunch is usually served on the first Sunday of the month, 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. In May, it will be served on Mother’s Day instead of the first Sunday. In June, it will be served on the first Sunday, plus on Father’s Day.

The surprise here was the perfect vanilla sugar doughnuts, so nice for a table to share. They were as light as air. The elegance of the drinks, a virgin coffee milk martini included, matches the elegant dishes. The French omelet with Gruyere created an omelet texture I’ve never had, so light and airy. But I wouldn’t pass up the dark rum and vanilla waffle with banana and caramelized walnuts even for the eggs covered with a beautiful classic Mornay sauce that a dining companion enjoyed. [The Providence Journal / Gail Ciampa]

Details: Persimmon, 99 Hope St., Providence, (401) 432-7422, persimmonri.com

AVENUE N AMERICAN KITCHEN, Rumford - East Providence

Brunch at Avenue N in Rumford comes with the best bonus: You can shop at the Avenue N Pantry afterward and stock up on the best from Rhode Island’s artisan food producers.

But first you must eat, drink and be merry. That’s what the crowd does in the lovely rustic dining room. [The Providence Journal, file /Kris Craig]

Brunch is served on Sundays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Spring cocktails are light and balanced and feature beautiful combinations of fresh juices, liqueurs and sparkling wine. The bloody mary is one of the best you’ll ever have anywhere.

This dish of sunchokes, leeks and bacon hash was beautiful and deliciously unique, as many of chef Nick Rabar’s dishes are. [The Providence Journal / Gail Ciampa]

Farm-fresh eggs made an omelet shine, and these lemon ricotta doughnuts with creme anglaise for your sweet tooth. I wish I had one now.

I loved the pace of the brunch here as much as the food. Service is fast and warmly efficient. You aren’t rushed in any way, but the food comes out at a perfect pace. It allows those on the go to enjoy a delightful brunch and then do other things with their day.

OCEAN MIST, Matunuck - South Kingstown

To some, Matunuck’s Ocean Mist may be a dive bar — and an excellent one at that. But I see beautifully prepared breakfast dishes, created with imagination by chef Chris Olivo. And to think that they come with an ocean view worth a million bucks, well, it’s a hard concept not to embrace. [The Providence Journal, file / Frieda Squires]

Breakfast is served Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

They call it breakfast at Ocean Mist, but it’s very much brunch. On the day of my visit, while I enjoyed Kahlua French Toast, another diner was having fish and chips. We both had an ocean view. I’m pretty sure she enjoyed her meal as much as I did mine. This French toast dish offers moist, tasty slices of Texas toast dipped in a Kahlua batter and served with two eggs any style. I suggest poached as they do a beautiful job with eggs.

Brunch with a water view is what you get in Matunuck at Ocean Mist. This Mexican Omelet is made with avocado, beans, fresh tomato salsa and pepper-jack cheese served with homefries and English muffin. [

Take a look at the California Benny, two poached eggs on an English muffin with fresh avocado slices, tomato, crispy bacon and chipotle hollandaise. It’s pretty as a picture.

Best of all, you can have your brunch seven days a week at Ocean Mist, and never break the bank, all while having that perfect ocean view. [The Providence Journal / Kris Craig]

Details: Ocean Mist, 895 Matunuck Beach Rd., South Kingstown, (401) 782-3740, oceanmist.net

TROOP, Providence

If you are hip, or want to feel hip, brunch at Troop in Providence is calling your name.

The Laughing Gorilla catering team of chef Jason Timothy, manager Leigh Vincola and Revival brewer Sean Larkin and two other partners earlier this year took over the Valley Street space that had been the cavernous Cuban Revolution restaurant. They shared a concept with Kyla Coburn, who created a homage to ’90s hip-hop and skateboarding culture with murals, boomboxes and so much more. [The Providence Journal / David DelPoio]

Brunch is served Sundays, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

But what you want to know is that they make an excellent Hangover Burger, with a fried egg, bacon and cheese. [The Providence Journal / David DelPoio]

I first ordered a Revival White Electric Stout, but then a frozen drink caught my eye: the Magical Unicorn. Like everything about Troop, it’s not what it seems. This frozen pink drink is hardly as harmless as it looks, since it’s made with Bacardi rum paired with Bailey’s Strawberry and Cream (and strawberries). But what fun it is to imbibe as your senses overload with the music, the décor, the food and the drink. [The Providence Journal / David DelPoio]

I liked the crowd, too, which was diverse in every way. I think there was even a birthday party going on in one corner. Everyone is welcome to the party. [The Providence Journal

THE DISTRICT, Providence

I thought my favorite thing about brunch at The District, in Providence’s Jewelry District, would be the chicken and waffles. I was wrong. It was the Bloody Mary bar that enchanted me, in every way. They bring you a glass with ice and vodka and then it’s your turn to build your drink. All the fixings are there at the bar: tomato juice, horseradish, Tabasco, olives, celery, and on and on. [The Providence Journal / Kris Craig]

Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

They also offer a bottle of sparkling wine for $20 for mimosas. But I will say that chicken and waffles is today’s quintessential brunch food. [The Providence Journal / Kris Craig]

OCEAN HOUSE, Westerly

It’s hard to argue with the views at Watch Hill’s Ocean House. They are stunning. As for the Champagne Brunch at the hotel’s Bistro each Sunday morning, it’s almost overwhelming, with a seemingly endless lineup of food. There’s the raw bar and the fruit bar and the soup and salad bar. There’s a crepe station, an antipasto table and a dessert table that includes macarons in many colors. Brunch is served Sundays, 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Then a server brings a menu for guests to order their plated main course from selections that include seafood en croute, a corned beef panini and assorted egg dishes.

The cost is a hefty $62 a person, but they don’t skimp on a thing. The Champagne or mimosas keep coming as long as you like.

I think Ocean House is a great choice if you have a multigenerational family gathering, or as the start of a day in lovely Watch Hill. [The Providence Journal, file / Steve Szydlowski]

Details: Ocean House, 1 Bluff Ave., Westerly, (401) 584-7000, oceanhouseri.com

DUCK AND BUNNY, Providence

Brunch is served in cozy elegance seven days a week at the Duck and Bunny in Providence. In the winter and spring, you can be warmed by the fireplace.

The Duck and Bunny also serves the best latkes, pictured. You just don’t see potato pancakes at every brunch — and after eating these, I think we should. [The Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo]

Brunch is served daily, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

In summer, you can sit out back in their secret garden. You just can’t lose here. [The Providence Journal, file / Sandor Bodo]

The menu also features many unique, delicate and beautiful crepes. They fulfill the promise to be light whether filled with salmon or veggies. [The Providence Journal / Sandor Bodo]

Details: Duck and Bunny, 312 Wickenden St., Providence, (401) 270-3300, the duckandbunny.com

COOK AND BROWN PUBLIC HOUSE, Providence

Providence’s Cook and Brown Public House does all the little things well. They make a great cup of coffee. They mix a perfectly balanced bloody mary. They make the best blueberry scones. All this adds up to a lovely brunch experience. [The Providence Journal, file / Sandor Bodo]

And — drumroll please — they have a killer dessert. The Brown Butter Waffle Ice Cream Sandwich comes with bacon ice cream and maple syrup for dipping. It is, simply put, awesome. And meant for sharing.

The Chocolate Babka French Toast isn’t bad either, but it doesn’t have bacon ice cream.

The search for the best brunches in Rhode Island was thoroughly enjoyable, with some of them served seaside and others run by some of Rhode Island’s most talented chefs. Most of the best places are in Providence, where chefs elevate the most common of brunch dishes. Details: Cook and Brown Public House, 959 Hope St., Providence, (401) 273-7275, cookandbrown.com

Rhode Island Chowder

The rich broth of this delicious clear broth Rhode Island clam chowder is loaded with potatoes, bacon, and either cherry-stones or quahogs.

Yankee Magazine 

No wonder Rhode Islanders prefer clear broth over cream—at every turn, they’re surrounded by saltwater. To savor the Ocean State’s take on clear broth clam chowder, visit Matunuck Oyster Bar, overlooking the eddies of Potter Pond in South Kingstown. The rich broth of this clear broth Rhode Island clam chowder is loaded with potatoes, bacon, and either cherry-stones or quahogs (same species of hard-shell clam, quahogs being bigger than cherrystones), depending on what’s fresh that day. Owner Perry Raso is so fastidious about his shellfish that he operates his own seven-acre oyster farm right by the restaurant.

Total Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Hands-On Time: 45 minutes
Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Matunuck Clear Broth Clam Chowder

Ingredients

• 8 pounds small quahogs or large cherrystone clams
• 7 cups water
• 6 cups clam broth (from steaming) or 4 cups clam broth plus 2 cups bottled clam juice
• 3 slices thick-sliced bacon, cut into ¼-inch cubes
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 medium-size onions, cut into ¼-inch cubes
• 3 ribs celery, cut into ¼-inch cubes
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 pounds Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh dill
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

Scrub the clams and rinse them clean.

Add 7 cups of water to a large stockpot fitted with a steamer basket or colander, and bring to a boil.

Add half the clams to the basket and cover. Steam until the clams open, 5 to 10 minutes. (Discard any clams that don’t open.)

Repeat with the second batch of clams. Reserve 6 cups of the broth. Set aside.

Cool the clams; remove the meat from the shells and dice it into ½-inch pieces. Keep them covered and refrigerated until ready to use.

Put the bacon in a 5- to 7-quart pot over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Add the butter, onions, celery, and bay leaves, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened but not browned, 6 to 8 minutes.

Add the potatoes and reserved clam broth to the pot. Continue cooking over medium heat until the chowder begins to simmer. If it begins to boil, reduce the heat slightly. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

Just before serving, remove the pot from the heat, stir in the clams and herbs, discard the bay leaves, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve hot.

Note: Steaming the clams might seem laborious, but it’s actually easy and makes a briny broth. Aim to extract 6 cups of broth from the clams; if not, you’ll need to have some bottled clam juice on hand to round it out. 

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Red Flannel Hash | Yankee Recipe Archives

Made with boiled dinner leftovers like corned beef and potatoes, a classic side of Red Flannel Hash comes with the added bonus of beets.

In New England, what do you get when you take a recipe for corned beef hash and swap out some of the potatoes with beets? A savory dish, known as Red Flannel Hash, which is named for the (so-called) flannel-esque patches of red made by the beets. We say crack in a few eggs, and just call it Sunday breakfast.

 England hash variation, especially popular on diner menus, but had never made a batch. Fortunately, Yankee Magazine‘s 1972 cookbook, Favorite New England Recipes, had not just a red flannel hash recipe, but also one for the New England boiled dinner needed to produce the necessary leftovers.

A traditional boiled dinner — the kind with corned beef, cabbage, and veggies — often has leftovers, and it’s these “next day bits” that make the tastiest hash, be it plain corned beef or red flannel with beets.

Our recipe is a simple one — just leftover corned beef, potatoes, beets, butter, cream, and a few shakes of salt and pepper. Yours, however, may include onions, peppers, cheese, fresh herbs… whatever you like or happen to have on hand.

Boiled dinner and the leftover hash (no matter the variety) are both New England comfort food classics, but in a 1991 Yankee food feature by Malabar Hornblower titled “Some of Our Frugal Classics Actually Taste Better the Morning After,” the author gives an extra nod to today’s featured variety:

The early settlers knew how to salt cod and beef, preserving them for use when food was scarce. From corned beef evolved one of New England’s favorite meals-in-one: New England boiled dinner (actually a version of the classic corned beef and cabbage). But there are many who maintain that the only reason to eat a boiled dinner is in order to enjoy the leftovers, chopped up and fried as red flannel hash.

How about you? Are you a fan of red flannel hash? Do you consider it to be as good (or maybe even better?) than the boiled dinner it comes from? Let us know in the comments!