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Explaining the ‘stuffie,’ a uniquely Rhode Island food that’s trying to attract tourists

 

 

 Explaining the ‘stuffie,’ a uniquely Rhode Island food that’s trying to attract tourists

The stuffed quahog is part of Rhode Island's latest campaign to draw in new visitors. But what exactly is a stuffie?

Massachusetts is known for its seafood. More specifically, clam chowder, fried clams, and oysters, and the food is just one of the reasons why millions of visitors come to the Bay State every year.

But what about the rest of New England? Like, Rhode Island, for example? Also known for its seafood scene, a food that might come to mind is calamari, the state appetizer that’s tossed with hot peppers.

Instead of capitalizing on that dish’s reputation, the Rhode Island Commerce Corporation is using a food in its recent campaign that is uniquely Rhode Island.

The “stuffie.”

In an attempt to draw in visitors to Rhode Island, the agency responsible for statewide economic development created a campaign starring a whopping 200-pound version of the stuffed quahog. It’s made of styrofoam, and it sits on a large plate next to an 8-foot-tall bottle of hot sauce. The agency had two of them made by local company Lance Industries.

The stuffie, which is making its way around parts of the country that offer flights to and from Providence, has been subject to some online criticism by the agency’s strongest detractors — Rhode Islanders themselves.

“We have a great culinary scene and having a giant baby pooh on a clam is not going to bring in more tourists,” one commenter said below a Boston Globe article. 

When it comes to looks alone, these oven-baked clams aren’t the most attractive plate of food, though Stephen Bucolo, president of Anthony’s Seafood in Middletown, thinks they make up for it in taste.

His business, which includes a restaurant, a seafood market, and wholesale, sells plenty of stuffies (though they sell a lot more of their calamari appetizer). Often they’re asked to explain what a stuffie is.

“Outside of Rhode Island, very few people know what they are,” he said. “When they ask, we say stuffed quahog, and then they ask what a quahog is.”

Anika Kimble-Huntley, the chief marketing officer of the Rhode Island Commerce, said that’s part of the point of the campaign. They want people in their target markets — Los Angeles, Detroit, Atlanta, and Baltimore — to ask about the stuffie. And they are, she added.

“I think it’s great that people are talking about it,” Kimble-Huntley said. “We want people to talk about it. That’s really what the goal is, to create buzz and to raise awareness of the unique cuisine in Rhode Island.”

Kimble-Huntley said they have ambassadors on site to explain the beloved stuffie to passersby and to pump them up about a potential Rhode Island trip. There’s also a video screen next to the stuffie that shows people how they’re made, from clamming to cooking.

So, what is a stuffie?

Outside of the boundaries of the country’s smallest state, stuffed quahogs really aren’t a widely-known (or eaten) food. They show up on some menus in southeastern Massachusetts, mostly near waters where quahogs are found (like Buzzards Bay), which is the clam used when making a “stuffie.”

But quahogs are found in abundance in Narragansett Bay in Rhode Island. Shellfish culture is important in Rhode Island, its industry worth hundreds of millions, and recreationally people enjoy clamming.

They also, obviously, really enjoy eating the catches.

Bucolo sells nearly 600 stuffies a week during peak summer season, he said. It helps that his stuffies were advertised on “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives;” it also doesn’t hurt that not many people serve them.

But when they are on the menu, they’re usually always a different take on the stuffie.

“The reason it’s so beloved here is that every family makes it their own way,” Kimble-Huntley said.

Aside from the quahogs, the recipes usually call for peppers, onions, the Portuguese sausage chourico, a breading, and reserved clam juice. You can opt for a different kind of sausage — or not use one at all, and people use various breadings to put in their stuffie dish, like sourdough, Portuguese sweet bread, bread crumbs, or croutons.

Bucolo, who uses his grandmother’s recipe, puts the latter in his stuffies.

After the clams are steamed, chopped, and mixed in with the other ingredients, you bake it all together. Many serve it with hot sauce drizzled on top, but you can also use melted butter in the same way.

Bucolo said the dish is really popular during the summer months, an appetizer of choice for a football game watch party, and it pairs well with an ice-cold beer.

Now back to this giant stuffie. There is actually a chance for some Bay Staters to view the stuffie (or, as one Reddit user called it, a “creature from Star Trek”) in person at this year’s Big E in West Springfield.

Kimble-Huntley said the stuffie will be stationed in front of the Rhode Island Building.

The second stuffie is currently being driven around Michigan and Ohio, attempting to entice residents there to visit Rhode Island via Detroit’s airport.

The stuffie will eventually journey to Los Angeles, where it will join another Rhode Island-specific installation of a Newport mansion, as well as Atlanta and Baltimore

 

Romancing the clam: The great stuffie wars of RI's South County

  

 

Romancing the clam: The great stuffie wars of RI's South County

Ah, a day at the beach. There’s no better and cheaper way to relax than getting out to the shore in the summer. An old towel, a bathing suit and 50 cents worth of sunscreen and you are on your way. All that salt air and swimming just beckons a seafood meal right around lunchtime. Then you find that a typical plate of fried clams runs about $18. And a good lobster roll? Forget about it. So what’s a tapped-out beach bum to do? Well, in Rhode Island you can turn to the Stuffie; a quahog (a huge cold water hard shell clam) stuffed with seafood stuffing and spices. A few stuffies and a beer is tasty, filling and can get you your seafood fix for about ten bucks.

 

A Rhode Island concoction

 

Stuffies are served virtually everywhere in Southern New England but are mostly considered a Rhode Island contribution. In fact the word “quahog” (pronounced ko-hog) originally came from the Narragansett and Wampanoag Indians indigenous to the Bay. Besides, Quahog, RI is the fictional setting for the popular Family Guy animated comedy. And if anyone carries a sense of authenticity and gravitas, it’s Stewie. How can you argue with that kind of research?

 

It’s all about balance

 

In order to find the best stuffie in South County, we brought in Boston’s Chef Julia Grimaldi as a guest judge. Grimaldi is a Boston University-educated personal chef and a Program Manager for the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources. But even more, she loves a good stuffed clam. As we worked through the various offerings at a number of popular restaurants, we found that the basic ingredients are pretty simple: chopped quahog meat, breading, and a combination of vegetables that can include celery, onion, peppers, and a variety of spices. The meat is scooped from the clam, chopped, mixed with the stuffing mixture, stuffed back in the shell and either baked or fried. They all seem to be garnished with greens, most commonly mesclun mix. While the ingredients varied only a little between restaurants, the balance of clams to stuffing, cooking technique, and attention to managing the flavor and texture profiles turned out surprisingly different experiences in the mouth. As you might guess, there was a big difference between the kitchens that make their stuffies in-house and those that get the pre-made, frozen food service offerings. Here are five of the area's better seafood restaurants we sampled.

 

5th Place: Champlins Seafood, Narragansett $5.99/order of 2

 

Located on the pier adjacent to the Block Island Ferry on Great Island Road, Champlins offers an expansive menu in a walk-up counter service setting. The second floor location offers a great view of the river, and there are options for inside and outside dining. Champlins buys their stuffies premade, and unfortunately, you can tell. They are prepared either baked or deep-fried. Either way, we found the texture to be overly soft, bready, and under-seasoned. We had to search for the clams and overall we were underwhelmed. Now, don’t write off Champlins. The place is hopping and we watched big plates of food going by our table that looked and smelled fantastic. But on this day, their stuffie did not measure up.

 

4th Place: Starboard Galley, Narragansett $2.25/ea.

 

The Starboard Galley is located just across the street from Scarborough Beach and leads with an informal atmosphere and a view of the ocean. They do a great takeout business and have a small game room with pool table and air hockey. Chef Grimaldi proved that she learned about more than just food during her career as she rallied to a stunning 7-5 victory in air hockey over our humbled writer. But back to the task at hand. The stuffies were served up hot and fast, and truth be said, they weren’t bad. Peppers, celery and onion were all present and accounted for and the clams were tender. But overall, these were a bit bland and needed lemon and Tabasco to bring out what flavor they had. If the competition was not so stiff, these would have fared much better. Still, at $2.25 each, there are no complaints here.

 

3rd Place: Matunuck Oyster Bar, E. Matunuck $3.95/ea.

 

The simplest way to put it is that everything about The Matunuck Oyster Bar is beautiful. From the breathtaking view of Potter Pond, to the artful preparation of each dish, everything is visually striking. In fact, of all the stuffies we sampled, these were the most distinctive in both appearance and in the quality of the ingredients. Starting with a house recipe, these quahogs incorporated chopped Chourico and cherry peppers. The clams were coarsely chopped, leaving big chunks of the clams in the mix. The breading was the most aggressively spiced and interesting. We wanted to love these stuffies! But for all the multi-layered flavors, the total effect didn’t realize the promise of the ingredients and apparent care applied. The individual parts didn’t seem to coalesce as a single experience. In addition, the big chunks of clams were dry and chewy, most likely from over cooking. This distraction put these stuffies squarely in the middle of the pack.

 

2nd Place: Red Stripe, Narragansett $2.99/ea.

 

Sister to the popular eatery in Waverly Square, Providence, Red Stripe has recently opened a new location on Pt. Judith Road. Hailing as an “American Brasserie,” the restaurant brings a continental flair to well-prepared, if not up-scale dining. Our first thought when sampling the stuffies here was “This is what people think of when they think of what a stuffie should be.” Like a great all-around athlete that excels at no single thing yet performs well in all areas, these stuffies were beautifully balanced. They have the optimal proportions between the tender clams and rich, buttery stuffing. The texture was enhanced by a counterpoint played between the slightly crunchy veggies and the soft, almost velvety breading. And did I mention the wonderfully rich buttery notes? Tempered with the slightest bit of lemon juice or tart Tabasco, these were a special experience.

 

1st Place: Captain Jack’s, Narragansett $2.99/ea.

 

Captain Jack’s is closing in on 40 years of service in South County. A family owned and run business, the restaurant focuses on creating seafood fare for the whole family. No exotic ingredients, cutting edge recipes or trendy gimmicks­­–just the freshest items prepared in a simple, straightforward way. In fact, even the owners and the staff have an “Aw shucks” way about them. But for all of this understatement, Captain Jack’s stuffies ruled the day. The first thing you will notice about them is the marvelous crispy crust on the top of the breading. They achieve this crunch by flash-frying the quahogs and then finishing them off in the oven. The crunchy shell conceals the mixture below which is an exercise in culinary restraint and subtle goodness. The chefs at Jack’s managed the best balance between clams and stuffing. The clam meat was minced fine, releasing ample clammy flavor, while allowing the flesh to cook to tender perfection without being dry or tough. The stuffing inside was savory and delicious, leading with spices reminiscent of Bay Seasoning, perfectly sautéed minced celery, onion, and a hint of parsley. Contributing flavors from the veggies and seasonings were recognizable individually, yet at the same time they harmonized in a single event in the mouth. Flavorful enough to eat plain, this crispy number also serves as a great platform to layer more intense flavors such as lemon juice, Tabasco, or cocktail sauce. This stuffie proves once again that a good recipe prepared with thought and care is surely greater than the sum of its parts.

 

Stuffies are not likely to replace baked stuffed lobster as a last meal request on death row. But if you have a hankering for fish on a budget, or if you just want a quick, cheap and delicious meal, the stuffie delivers fullness and satisfaction. And they are sold in just about every in Rhode Island seafood joint. Click on the names of the restaurants in the headings above to see their complete menus, hours and get directions. And don’t forget the sunscreen

The 5 Best Wiener Joints in Rhode Island

 

The 5 Best Wiener Joints in Rhode Island

Ann & Michael Martini, GoLocalProv Food Editors

 

Ah, the arguments we know this one will incite. Alas, when we heard recently that local hot wiener joints closed in honor of the death of the patriarch of the Olneyville System wiener family, we knew it was time to round up Rhode Island’s best. As tough as it was to decide, we think we’ve found Rhode Island’s top dogs, or most of them, anyway. Burp.

 

 

 

Olneyville New York System, Providence

 

 

 

They say the art of prepping wieners “up the arm” of the guy assembling them behind the counter began in the 1940s on Coney Island. In that circus-like atmosphere, food vendors would compete for attention and sales. Well, if the art has been perfected anywhere, it’s a this wiener top spot (“It adds flavor,” Ann’s dad always says). Not that they need it. The “sauce” – a tangy concoction of meat and tomatoes and spices that goes on top is the best of the bunch here at this iconic joint. Expect to see anyone from Buddy Cianci to Patrick Kennedy to your local general assemblyman belly up to the counter. Back when Showtime’s “Brotherhood” series used to film here, the cast and crew would almost clean the place out of wieners regularly. Almost. 20 Plainfield St, 621-9500

 

Wien-o-Rama, Cranston

 

If there is, in Rhode Island, a haute hot wiener, this is where you find it. Wien-o-Rama has something of a cult following among loyals that includes top local chefs and food lovers who won’t get them anywhere else. We think it has something to do with the dog itself, made from beef and pork, tucked into a steamed bun and topped off with a rich and tasty sauce – meatier than most – mustard and fresh onions. There is something decidedly palate-pleasing about the combination. Prepare to queue up however – the lines here can be long and seating is limited, so it’s best to get these dogs to go. If you must deviate from the menu, the burgers here are quite good too, in a wiener-joint kind of way. 1009 Oaklawn Ave, 943-4990

 

 

 

Smith Street New York System, Providence

 

What makes a wiener best? Dare we say it might be the freshness of the toppings? Okay, maybe that’s a stretch. But if not, consider this: Olneyville New York System goes through tens of thousands of wieners a month. So on any given day, you can be assured that the dog that you order at this institution will be as tasty as they come. A fresh snap from the wiener itself, lots of sauce and celery salt, mustard, onions. Heartburn follows and is oh, so worth it. One must order them “all the way” here or the counter help will look at you like you’re a Yankee Fan in Red Sox Nation. Don’t know what “all the way” means? You can stop reading now, then. 424 Smith St, 331-5349

 

Cosmic Steak and Pizza, Warwick

 

We have been eating the wieners at Cosmic since we were in, ahem, high school. And a visit to this Warwick institution, which has been proudly serving great grub since 1976, on a recent Saturday night shows not much has changed. Teens and families wait patiently at the counter for the plethora of tasty treats on the menu: everything from fresh salads to baked pastas to steak sandwiches to pepperoni pies to hot wieners. And, oh the wieners are top-notch. The buns are always properly steamed-never a tough or waterlogged bun to be had here. The meat sauce is terrific and we always end up with some crispy fries to go along with the tasty wieners. These babies have that “snap” that you look for in a good wiener.1141 Post Rd, 781-5410 www.cosmicri.com

 

 

 

Rod's Grill, Warren

 

The Rodriguez family has been building hot wieners here using the same recipe for more than 50 years. The grandkids run it now using the same recipes Grandma Rodriguez used. Rod’s is a townie kind of place, a greasy spoon that serves up cheap eats and everybody knows everybody else’s name. We’re talking traditional comfort food here. Large portions to fill the fishermen and other blue collar workers bellies are the norm. The family takes great care to make you feel like you are a long lost relative. We like our wieners here with a little extra mustard and extra meat sauce. Don’t forget to add some fries on the side and a coffee milk never hurt anyone! 6 Washington St, Warren, 245-9405

 

Lunch In Rhode Island: Stuffies, The Only Way To Eat A Quahog

 

 Lunch In Rhode Island: Stuffies, The Only Way To Eat A Quahog

 

Stuffies at Portu-Galo, East Providence

Portu-Galo has opened a local food truck that is reported to be excellent and carries everything from bifana with the pork cutlet to stuffies which come highly recommended ("order the stuffies -- these Rhode Island's icons are some of the best we've had")Also recommended is Seafood Inc. Pawcatuck

 

Happy New England regional specialty Friday!

 

 


BY JESS KAPADIA

A truly authentic Rhode Island stuffie tastes like clam and breadcrumbs, and nothing more.

I absolutely love discovering regional specialties involving ultra-fresh seafood! I was recently enlightened by the Baltimore crab pretzel, I even made my own semi-legit version in Test Kitchen. Last week I reconnected with a friend from high school who spent a few years on and off in Rhode Island, and was turned on to the stuffie. It involves the quahog, king of chowder. And quite frankly, I just plain like saying it.

So you take your giant clam, shuck it, retain the juice, chop and mix with bread or cracker crumbs and a little extra clam juice to moisten, then return to shell. Bake, add a squeeze of lemon and consume. That's a stuffie and that sounds awesome. I usually suggest a little trio or so of variations, but I don't want anything else in or on that. Maybe a little hot sauce, the mild stuff. Red Devil, at most.

That said, there are many variations still very much worth eating. Some mix sautéed onions and celery, cherry peppers and/or sausage with the clams before returning them to whenst they came to get crispy. Portuguese stuffies, courtesy of the large Portuguese population in Rhode Island, involve chouriço (relative of chorizo) and green peppers.

Any sort of battered or breaded and fried seafood is truly sacred to those who have spent time in New England, and this is no exception. While it's no clam belly on the beach, I can definitely see creating a variation on this for our next Test Kitchen. There's nothing like a great stuffed clam-related schooling.

Puritan & Company

 

  

 


Puritan & Company is Will Gilson’s brilliant new homage to classic New England cuisine.

His clever touches on everything from clam chowder to Rhode Island-style stuffies range from fresh and exciting to downright decadent.

We love the eye for historic culinary detail: The smoked bluefish pate is served with homemade hardtack; the aromatic Wellfleet clam chowder with homemade oyster crackers.

The lamb belly is crusted in a Moxie glaze. Yes, the iconic Maine soda. The frisee and foie gras salad is served with johnnycake, Gilson’s version of the Colonial-era corn bread; and look next week for cod brandade served with brown bread and baked beans out of a salt-cod box, meant to remind longtime New Englanders of Friday night supper.

Oh, and for decadence, try the wood-roasted Muscovy duck: gorgeous strips of rich breast meat with perfectly crispy skin and a sinful layer of fat.

 

Puritan & Company Stuffies

1/2 large onion, chopped finely

8 oz. butter

2 c. flour

3 c. milk

1/2 c. chopped quahogs 1/2 c. grated parmesan cheese 1 T. thyme, chopped 1 T. parsley chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

 1 t. paprika

2 c. flour

2 eggs

2 c. bread crumbs

Cook onion in butter until soft. Add 2 cups flour and whisk over low heat until mixture resembles roux. Add milk and whisk over high heat, cooking until mixture thickens to consistency of cookie dough. Add clams, cheese, thyme, parsley, lemon zest and paprika, and mix well. Cool, then portion into 2-oz. balls. Freeze. Heat oil in large, safe pot to 350 degrees. Remove frozen stuffies. Place 2 cups flour, eggs and bread crumbs in three separate dishes. Coat stuffies with flour, then eggs, then bread crumbs, shaking off excess. Fry each stuffie 4 to 5 minutes. Makes 36 stuffies.

 

(Puritan & Company, 1166 Cambridge St., -Inman Square, Cambridge, 617-615-6195, www.puritan-cam bridge.com.) 

 

 


Puritan & Company is Will Gilson’s brilliant new homage to classic New England cuisine.

His clever touches on everything from clam chowder to Rhode Island-style stuffies range from fresh and exciting to downright decadent.

We love the eye for historic culinary detail: The smoked bluefish pate is served with homemade hardtack; the aromatic Wellfleet clam chowder with homemade oyster crackers.

The lamb belly is crusted in a Moxie glaze. Yes, the iconic Maine soda. The frisee and foie gras salad is served with johnnycake, Gilson’s version of the Colonial-era corn bread; and look next week for cod brandade served with brown bread and baked beans out of a salt-cod box, meant to remind longtime New Englanders of Friday night supper.

Oh, and for decadence, try the wood-roasted Muscovy duck: gorgeous strips of rich breast meat with perfectly crispy skin and a sinful layer of fat.

 

Puritan & Company Stuffies

1/2 large onion, chopped finely

8 oz. butter

2 c. flour

3 c. milk

1/2 c. chopped quahogs 1/2 c. grated parmesan cheese 1 T. thyme, chopped 1 T. parsley chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

 1 t. paprika

2 c. flour

2 eggs

2 c. bread crumbs

Cook onion in butter until soft. Add 2 cups flour and whisk over low heat until mixture resembles roux. Add milk and whisk over high heat, cooking until mixture thickens to consistency of cookie dough. Add clams, cheese, thyme, parsley, lemon zest and paprika, and mix well. Cool, then portion into 2-oz. balls. Freeze. Heat oil in large, safe pot to 350 degrees. Remove frozen stuffies. Place 2 cups flour, eggs and bread crumbs in three separate dishes. Coat stuffies with flour, then eggs, then bread crumbs, shaking off excess. Fry each stuffie 4 to 5 minutes. Makes 36 stuffies.

 

(Puritan & Company, 1166 Cambridge St., -Inman Square, Cambridge, 617-615-6195, www.puritan-cam bridge.com.) 

 

 


Rhode Island Food Trail: Stuffies

 

 

Rhode Island Food Trail: Stuffies




by Johnette Rodriguez


Although you'll find many versions of stuffed clams around New England, it's only in Li'l Rhody that they're called "stuffies," and there are as many variations of them within the borders of this tiny state as there are delis, pizza shops, grocery stores, seafood shacks, fish markets, and upscale eateries to make them.

As with many other bread-based dishes, stuffies came into existence to stretch budgets and to provide carb-stoking meals for fishermen, farmers, and other long-day laborers. In Rhode Island, stuffies begin with quahogs, the clams in those big shells with the purple markings inside, once polished for wampum by Native Americans.
To make stuffies, you first shuck the quahogs, capture their juice, and add some extra clam juice to moisten the bread cubes or cracker crumbs. Some stuffie cooks add chopped onion, celery, and sweet or hot peppers; some spice the mix like Thanksgiving stuffing; others make a Portuguese stew, complete with chourico. Still others swear that a true stuffie should taste only like chopped quahogs and clam-juice-soaked bread--just add your own hot sauce or lemon juice on top. One old-timer, who once made thousands of stuffies by hand at his Warwick fish market years ago, used to say, "Putting sausage in a stuffie is like putting raisins in meatballs." So there you have it--something for every taste, simple to spicy.

Amaral's Fish and Chips
For your basic stuffie, head to Amaral's. This shop prides itself on letting the seafood shine through: delectable clams seasoned with onion, celery, and spices, crispy on the top from baking in a hot oven. 4 Redmond St., Warren. 401-247-0675; amaralsfishandchips.com

Champlin's Seafood
Besides "basic" stuffies, these folks also offer "casino stuffies" with bacon and "Portuguese stuffies" with chourico and a hint of green pepper. 256 Great Island Road, Narragansett. 401-783-3152; champlins.com

Quito's Restaurant & Bar
Quito's makes its stuffies with an even smokier taste. They're about the same size as Champlin's; the texture's a bit heavier, but they're still quite good. 411 Thames St., Bristol. 401-253-4500, quitosrestaurant.com

Anthony's Seafood
 Anthony's stuffies come in both mild and hot options: roasted peppers in the low-key version, cherry peppers in the spicier one. Both include a bit of chourico and a ton of chopped clams. 963 Aquidneck Ave., Middletown. 401-846-9620, 401-848-5058; anthonysseafood.net

The Commons Lunch
 Commons' stuffies come in heaping portions--a bit spicy, with lots of clams, and both regular sausage and chourico, keeping the dish moist and meaty. 48 Commons, Little Compton. 401-635-4388