All New England Books

Happy New England regional specialty Friday!

 

 


BY JESS KAPADIA

A truly authentic Rhode Island stuffie tastes like clam and breadcrumbs, and nothing more.

I absolutely love discovering regional specialties involving ultra-fresh seafood! I was recently enlightened by the Baltimore crab pretzel, I even made my own semi-legit version in Test Kitchen. Last week I reconnected with a friend from high school who spent a few years on and off in Rhode Island, and was turned on to the stuffie. It involves the quahog, king of chowder. And quite frankly, I just plain like saying it.

So you take your giant clam, shuck it, retain the juice, chop and mix with bread or cracker crumbs and a little extra clam juice to moisten, then return to shell. Bake, add a squeeze of lemon and consume. That's a stuffie and that sounds awesome. I usually suggest a little trio or so of variations, but I don't want anything else in or on that. Maybe a little hot sauce, the mild stuff. Red Devil, at most.

That said, there are many variations still very much worth eating. Some mix sautéed onions and celery, cherry peppers and/or sausage with the clams before returning them to whenst they came to get crispy. Portuguese stuffies, courtesy of the large Portuguese population in Rhode Island, involve chouriço (relative of chorizo) and green peppers.

Any sort of battered or breaded and fried seafood is truly sacred to those who have spent time in New England, and this is no exception. While it's no clam belly on the beach, I can definitely see creating a variation on this for our next Test Kitchen. There's nothing like a great stuffed clam-related schooling.

Puritan & Company

 

  

 


Puritan & Company is Will Gilson’s brilliant new homage to classic New England cuisine.

His clever touches on everything from clam chowder to Rhode Island-style stuffies range from fresh and exciting to downright decadent.

We love the eye for historic culinary detail: The smoked bluefish pate is served with homemade hardtack; the aromatic Wellfleet clam chowder with homemade oyster crackers.

The lamb belly is crusted in a Moxie glaze. Yes, the iconic Maine soda. The frisee and foie gras salad is served with johnnycake, Gilson’s version of the Colonial-era corn bread; and look next week for cod brandade served with brown bread and baked beans out of a salt-cod box, meant to remind longtime New Englanders of Friday night supper.

Oh, and for decadence, try the wood-roasted Muscovy duck: gorgeous strips of rich breast meat with perfectly crispy skin and a sinful layer of fat.

 

Puritan & Company Stuffies

1/2 large onion, chopped finely

8 oz. butter

2 c. flour

3 c. milk

1/2 c. chopped quahogs 1/2 c. grated parmesan cheese 1 T. thyme, chopped 1 T. parsley chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

 1 t. paprika

2 c. flour

2 eggs

2 c. bread crumbs

Cook onion in butter until soft. Add 2 cups flour and whisk over low heat until mixture resembles roux. Add milk and whisk over high heat, cooking until mixture thickens to consistency of cookie dough. Add clams, cheese, thyme, parsley, lemon zest and paprika, and mix well. Cool, then portion into 2-oz. balls. Freeze. Heat oil in large, safe pot to 350 degrees. Remove frozen stuffies. Place 2 cups flour, eggs and bread crumbs in three separate dishes. Coat stuffies with flour, then eggs, then bread crumbs, shaking off excess. Fry each stuffie 4 to 5 minutes. Makes 36 stuffies.

 

(Puritan & Company, 1166 Cambridge St., -Inman Square, Cambridge, 617-615-6195, www.puritan-cam bridge.com.) 

 

 


Puritan & Company is Will Gilson’s brilliant new homage to classic New England cuisine.

His clever touches on everything from clam chowder to Rhode Island-style stuffies range from fresh and exciting to downright decadent.

We love the eye for historic culinary detail: The smoked bluefish pate is served with homemade hardtack; the aromatic Wellfleet clam chowder with homemade oyster crackers.

The lamb belly is crusted in a Moxie glaze. Yes, the iconic Maine soda. The frisee and foie gras salad is served with johnnycake, Gilson’s version of the Colonial-era corn bread; and look next week for cod brandade served with brown bread and baked beans out of a salt-cod box, meant to remind longtime New Englanders of Friday night supper.

Oh, and for decadence, try the wood-roasted Muscovy duck: gorgeous strips of rich breast meat with perfectly crispy skin and a sinful layer of fat.

 

Puritan & Company Stuffies

1/2 large onion, chopped finely

8 oz. butter

2 c. flour

3 c. milk

1/2 c. chopped quahogs 1/2 c. grated parmesan cheese 1 T. thyme, chopped 1 T. parsley chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

 1 t. paprika

2 c. flour

2 eggs

2 c. bread crumbs

Cook onion in butter until soft. Add 2 cups flour and whisk over low heat until mixture resembles roux. Add milk and whisk over high heat, cooking until mixture thickens to consistency of cookie dough. Add clams, cheese, thyme, parsley, lemon zest and paprika, and mix well. Cool, then portion into 2-oz. balls. Freeze. Heat oil in large, safe pot to 350 degrees. Remove frozen stuffies. Place 2 cups flour, eggs and bread crumbs in three separate dishes. Coat stuffies with flour, then eggs, then bread crumbs, shaking off excess. Fry each stuffie 4 to 5 minutes. Makes 36 stuffies.

 

(Puritan & Company, 1166 Cambridge St., -Inman Square, Cambridge, 617-615-6195, www.puritan-cam bridge.com.) 

 

 


Rhode Island Food Trail: Stuffies

 

 

Rhode Island Food Trail: Stuffies




by Johnette Rodriguez


Although you'll find many versions of stuffed clams around New England, it's only in Li'l Rhody that they're called "stuffies," and there are as many variations of them within the borders of this tiny state as there are delis, pizza shops, grocery stores, seafood shacks, fish markets, and upscale eateries to make them.

As with many other bread-based dishes, stuffies came into existence to stretch budgets and to provide carb-stoking meals for fishermen, farmers, and other long-day laborers. In Rhode Island, stuffies begin with quahogs, the clams in those big shells with the purple markings inside, once polished for wampum by Native Americans.
To make stuffies, you first shuck the quahogs, capture their juice, and add some extra clam juice to moisten the bread cubes or cracker crumbs. Some stuffie cooks add chopped onion, celery, and sweet or hot peppers; some spice the mix like Thanksgiving stuffing; others make a Portuguese stew, complete with chourico. Still others swear that a true stuffie should taste only like chopped quahogs and clam-juice-soaked bread--just add your own hot sauce or lemon juice on top. One old-timer, who once made thousands of stuffies by hand at his Warwick fish market years ago, used to say, "Putting sausage in a stuffie is like putting raisins in meatballs." So there you have it--something for every taste, simple to spicy.

Amaral's Fish and Chips
For your basic stuffie, head to Amaral's. This shop prides itself on letting the seafood shine through: delectable clams seasoned with onion, celery, and spices, crispy on the top from baking in a hot oven. 4 Redmond St., Warren. 401-247-0675; amaralsfishandchips.com

Champlin's Seafood
Besides "basic" stuffies, these folks also offer "casino stuffies" with bacon and "Portuguese stuffies" with chourico and a hint of green pepper. 256 Great Island Road, Narragansett. 401-783-3152; champlins.com

Quito's Restaurant & Bar
Quito's makes its stuffies with an even smokier taste. They're about the same size as Champlin's; the texture's a bit heavier, but they're still quite good. 411 Thames St., Bristol. 401-253-4500, quitosrestaurant.com

Anthony's Seafood
 Anthony's stuffies come in both mild and hot options: roasted peppers in the low-key version, cherry peppers in the spicier one. Both include a bit of chourico and a ton of chopped clams. 963 Aquidneck Ave., Middletown. 401-846-9620, 401-848-5058; anthonysseafood.net

The Commons Lunch
 Commons' stuffies come in heaping portions--a bit spicy, with lots of clams, and both regular sausage and chourico, keeping the dish moist and meaty. 48 Commons, Little Compton. 401-635-4388

GoLocalProv Names Rod's Grill Wieners as Top Five in RI

 

 It is probably safe to say that if you live in Bristol or Warren, you've been to Rod's Grill at least once. Similarly, it's probably also safe to say that most locals think the wieners at Rod's Grill are the best in Rhode Island.

Well, GoLocalProv agrees. On Thursday the site published a list of the top five wiener joints in Rhode Island. Among their top five were Wien-o-Rama in Cranston, the Olneyville New York System in Providence, the Smith Street New York System in Providence, Cosmic Steak and Pizza in Warwick, and of course, Rod's Grill in Warren.
Rod's Grill has lasted through the years as a family-owned business and has received numerous awards, such as the Best Lunch Counter, Best of Rhode Island's Best Wieners in the East Bay, Rhode Island Monthly's Cheap Eats, and recently, was named in Fork in the Rhode's top 10 New York System Wiener Challenge.

 

The 5 Best Wiener Joints in Rhode Island

Ann & Michael Martini, GoLocalProv Food Editors

 

Ah, the arguments we know this one will incite. Alas, when we heard recently that local hot wiener joints closed in honor of the death of the patriarch of the Olneyville System wiener family, we knew it was time to round up Rhode Island’s best. As tough as it was to decide, we think we’ve found Rhode Island’s top dogs, or most of them, anyway. Burp.

 

 

 

Olneyville New York System, Providence

 

 

 

They say the art of prepping wieners “up the arm” of the guy assembling them behind the counter began in the 1940s on Coney Island. In that circus-like atmosphere, food vendors would compete for attention and sales. Well, if the art has been perfected anywhere, it’s a this wiener top spot (“It adds flavor,” Ann’s dad always says). Not that they need it. The “sauce” – a tangy concoction of meat and tomatoes and spices that goes on top is the best of the bunch here at this iconic joint. Expect to see anyone from Buddy Cianci to Patrick Kennedy to your local general assemblyman belly up to the counter. Back when Showtime’s “Brotherhood” series used to film here, the cast and crew would almost clean the place out of wieners regularly. Almost. 20 Plainfield St, 621-9500

 

Wien-o-Rama, Cranston

 

If there is, in Rhode Island, a haute hot wiener, this is where you find it. Wien-o-Rama has something of a cult following among loyals that includes top local chefs and food lovers who won’t get them anywhere else. We think it has something to do with the dog itself, made from beef and pork, tucked into a steamed bun and topped off with a rich and tasty sauce – meatier than most – mustard and fresh onions. There is something decidedly palate-pleasing about the combination. Prepare to queue up however – the lines here can be long and seating is limited, so it’s best to get these dogs to go. If you must deviate from the menu, the burgers here are quite good too, in a wiener-joint kind of way. 1009 Oaklawn Ave, 943-4990

 

 

 

Smith Street New York System, Providence

 

What makes a wiener best? Dare we say it might be the freshness of the toppings? Okay, maybe that’s a stretch. But if not, consider this: Olneyville New York System goes through tens of thousands of wieners a month. So on any given day, you can be assured that the dog that you order at this institution will be as tasty as they come. A fresh snap from the wiener itself, lots of sauce and celery salt, mustard, onions. Heartburn follows and is oh, so worth it. One must order them “all the way” here or the counter help will look at you like you’re a Yankee Fan in Red Sox Nation. Don’t know what “all the way” means? You can stop reading now, then. 424 Smith St, 331-5349

 

Cosmic Steak and Pizza, Warwick

 

We have been eating the wieners at Cosmic since we were in, ahem, high school. And a visit to this Warwick institution, which has been proudly serving great grub since 1976, on a recent Saturday night shows not much has changed. Teens and families wait patiently at the counter for the plethora of tasty treats on the menu: everything from fresh salads to baked pastas to steak sandwiches to pepperoni pies to hot wieners. And, oh the wieners are top-notch. The buns are always properly steamed-never a tough or waterlogged bun to be had here. The meat sauce is terrific and we always end up with some crispy fries to go along with the tasty wieners. These babies have that “snap” that you look for in a good wiener.1141 Post Rd, 781-5410 www.cosmicri.com

 

 

 

Rod's Grill, Warren

 

The Rodriguez family has been building hot wieners here using the same recipe for more than 50 years. The grandkids run it now using the same recipes Grandma Rodriguez used. Rod’s is a townie kind of place, a greasy spoon that serves up cheap eats and everybody knows everybody else’s name. We’re talking traditional comfort food here. Large portions to fill the fishermen and other blue collar workers bellies are the norm. The family takes great care to make you feel like you are a long lost relative. We like our wieners here with a little extra mustard and extra meat sauce. Don’t forget to add some fries on the side and a coffee milk never hurt anyone! 6 Washington St, Warren, 245-9405

NY System RI Style

 

 


New York System in Rhode Island


Big cities are often identified by a unique local cuisine. Mention New York and you’ll hear about the pizza. Talk about Philadelphia and you’ll be compelled to discuss how good the cheesesteaks taste. After a quick drive around Providence you’ll notice real quickly that Providence is all about hot wieners.

 

Also known as New York system wieners, hot wieners are a local favorite
in Rhode Island and you can find them in just about every neighborhood in
Providence. The most famous one of course is Olneyville New York System
Wieners, which was recently featured on 
Man vs. Food. The dogs have a natural
casing and are made up of beef veal and pork. Spicy brown mustard and top-cut
rolls are standard with the wiener, but what makes this special is the meat sauce.
Depending on the location the sauce can range from dry to wet, gravy like sauce.

 

Hot Wieners are a staple of after hours eating here in Providence, with most
wiener spots open until 2am on weekends. For the most part these places are
small family-owned restaurants. So what are you going to do if you forget to
catch them before the clock strikes 2:01? You can follow this recipe to make your
own New York systems at home.

 

6-8 New England Style Hot Dog Rolls
6-8 Deli Wieners or Beef Franks
1 lbs. of 85% lean ground Beef
1 medium-sized Yellow Onion (diced)
1/2 cup of Vegetable Oil
1/2 tsp. of Worcestershire Sauce
1 tsp. soy sauce
Celery Salt
Garlic Powder
Black Pepper

 

1. Place beef in a large skillet on medium-high until the meat is evenly
brown. Make sure you are grounding the meat as best you can. Once
brown drain the meat and set it aside.

 

2. Next place you diced onions and vegetable oil in the skillet on medium
high until the onion is light brown. I suggest using a wooden spoon.

 

3. Now you can throw in your beef, Worcestershire sauce, soy, and spice to
tastes. Mix the ingredients well. Now you can reduce heat to a simmer and
cover. This should simmer for about 20 minutes. Check back every few
minutes and taste it. If the sauce is too dry add a little more vegetable oil, likewise if you think it needs more seasoning.

 

4. In the mean time you can start on your dogs. Traditionally they are
steamed but you can use any method you like. For whichever method you
chose, make 3 small slits on them so you can tell they are ready.

 

5. For warm buns, wrap the buns individually in a paper towels and place in
the microwave for 20 seconds.

 

6. Now its time to put your hot wiener together. Your order of operations is
deli mustard, frank, and finally top with some meat sauce.

Gaggers

 

 


In Rhode Island, a summertime backyard cookout doesn’t need much. Toss a few “hots and hams” on the grill, set out the ketchup and mustard, and let the lawn games begin.

But if you’re looking to get just a bit extra this summer, there are easy ways to level up the humble hot dog. Whether you’re setting up a toppings bar or re-creating the state’s iconic “all the way” wieners, these simple upgrades will bring the backyard grill to life.

First things first: pick a good dog. Little Rhody Frankfurts, made in Johnston, are widely available at local markets and are the go-to for most wiener joints in the area. As long as you have a well-cooked dog, you can’t go wrong.

Always prep your buns: lightly toasted or steamed works best. And set out a variety of toppings to encourage some creativity. Just a few extra ingredients can go a long way. Experiment with pickled red onions, crispy potato sticks, crushed Doritos, truffle mayo, sriracha aioli, diced white onion, sauerkraut, coleslaw, pickled jalapeños, and/or banana peppers. (The diced white onion is probably the most essential among these potential toppings.) Also, be sure to get some celery salt. You might never use it for anything else, but it’s great on hot dogs.

For those who prefer something more structured than a DIY toppings bar, they can opt for themed hot dog builds: A Chicago-style combo might feature tomato slices, pickle spears, sport peppers, yellow mustard, and celery salt. A Tex-Mex variation could include salsa, shredded cheddar, jalapeños, and sliced avocado. For brunch lovers, try a breakfast dog topped with scrambled egg, bacon bits, and a drizzle of maple syrup.

But no Rhode Island hot dog list would be complete without the state’s iconic “all the way” wiener: a steamed bun cradling a natural-casing frank topped in order with yellow mustard, seasoned meat sauce, finely chopped onions, and a dusting of celery salt. It’s a combination that’s simple but loaded with local flavor.

Brought to Rhode Island by Greek immigrants in the early 20th century, the “New York System”-style hot wiener has nothing to do with New York. The name was, reportedly, simply a branding trick to evoke big-city appeal.

What sets these dogs apart is the wiener sauce, made from a closely guarded secret recipe. It’s a blend of finely ground beef, onions, and warm spices like cumin, paprika, and allspice.

While Olneyville New York System remains the best-known source with locations in Providence and Cranston, NY Lunch in Woonsocket serves a nearly identical version beloved by locals in the Blackstone Valley. Both shops source their dogs from Little Rhody Foods in Johnston. Even the buns are specific: top-split and steamed, usually from Superior Bakery in Cranston or another local supplier.

Wiener fans in Pawtucket can also visit the Happy Hour Social Club on Power Road, where longtime customers revived the beloved Kip’s Hot Wieners tradition in 2024. Originally served at a 10-seat counter on West Avenue for more than four decades, Kip’s signature wieners are now back on the menu Thursday through Sunday evenings.

If catching a Rhode Island FC game at Centreville Bank Stadium in Pawtucket, also find wieners on the menu at the concession stands.

And in Smithfield, Downstairs at the Brothers Artisan Café now offers wieners as part of its new late-night comfort food menu, continuing the tradition in a casual, games-filled basement space that doubles as a hub for food and fun.

But what if you want some at home?

Li’l General on Cumberland Hill Road in Woonsocket sells wiener sauce by the pound. Or, for something closer to the real thing, Olneyville NY System sells their own spice packet, which can be used at home to replicate the flavor with ground beef.

If you’d rather do it yourself, here’s a home-tested recipe that captures the essence of the original while keeping things easy for weeknight cooks or backyard parties.


RI wiener sauce recipe

Makes about 2 cups (enough for 12 dogs)

In a large skillet, cook 1 pound of ground beef and break it into a fine crumble. Add 1 small onion, finely minced, and 1 clove of minced garlic. Cook until soft. Stir in 2 tablespoons of tomato paste, 1 teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, 1 teaspoon of yellow mustard, 1½ teaspoons of cumin, 1 teaspoon of paprika, ½ teaspoon of chili powder, ¼ teaspoon of allspice, ½ teaspoon of celery salt, ½ teaspoon of black pepper, and a pinch of salt. Add ¼ to ½ cup of water or broth, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick but spoonable.

For a thicker, more diner-style texture, stir in 2 tablespoons of plain breadcrumbs during the final 10 minutes of cooking.

Serve it all “all the way,” with mustard first, then meat sauce, followed by onions and a sprinkle of celery salt, and you’ve got yourself a taste of Rhode Island.

Wein-O-Rama, the beloved Cranston hot dog joint known for its classic Rhode Island “all the way”

 

 


Wein-O-Rama, the beloved Cranston hot dog joint known for its classic Rhode Island “all the way” weenies, has officially reopened under new ownership, and did it in style.

To kick things off, competitive eating champion Geoff Esper stopped by and ate a staggering 48 hot dogs in just 30 minutes. Let that settle in for just a minute. That's a lot of weiners!

Local businessman Chris Tasca, who grew up going to Wein-O-Rama with his late father, partnered with friend Eric Beaune to buy and revive the iconic eatery after it briefly shut its doors last August.

This was never just a business decision,” Tasca said. “This was a personal mission. Wein-O-Rama was my reset zone... a place I’d go to decompress. Now, it’s my way of keeping my father’s memory alive and giving back to a community staple.”

The reopening took place on June 22, and Esper, a world-renowned competitive eater and teacher by trade, happily set a house record. He devoured the dogs “all the way,” which includes meat sauce, chopped onions, celery salt and mustard on a steamed bun.

“He hit 20 in five minutes and said he wasn’t even full after 48,” Tasca said. “It was wild.”

Rhode Island's Wein-O-Rama Hot Dog Eating Champion Geoff Esper

Wein-O-Rama via Facebook

The reopening celebration was a viral hit, with more than a million combined views on social media platforms. Tasca initially reached out to competitive eating icon Joey Chestnut, who couldn't attend but recommended Esper in his place.

Open six days a week (Tuesday through Saturday 6:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and Sunday 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.), Wein-O-Rama continues to serve breakfast, lunch and handles large catering orders. One loyal customer from Narragansett once ordered 78 hot dogs, earning a spot in the restaurant’s weekly “most gets the post” tradition.

Rhode Island's Wein-O-Rama's Most Gets A Post- Gino and Chris

Wein-O-Rama via Facebook

Tasca said Wein-O-Rama is for everyone; from boomers who remember it from decades past to today’s younger families, tradespeople, professionals and everyone in between.